My son Dave visited Yunnan shortly after he moved to China in 2008. For years, he has urged me to see this province of China that is often considered the most beautiful. So, when Nick Bray, who led my birding trip in 2012, posted on Facebook that he was planning Zoothera Birding‘s first trip to Yunnan, I immediately signed up.
Common Kingfishers are widespread in Asia and I have seen them on every trip, this time in both Yunnan and later in Shenzhen.
I arrived in Kunming in the wee hours of January 16th, a full day before the others so that I wouldn’t be starting the trip with jet lag. I planned to sleep late and then do a little birding on my first day. I thought that I was so smart when I was preparing for the trip and found a little park not far from the hotel. I printed the map so that I could show it to a taxi driver as no taxi drivers in China speak any English. The hotel called a taxi for me and, as planned, I showed my little map to the driver. I assumed that he would take me to the park, but after a few minutes he showed me his phone with a translation app. It said “That park is old and depressed. Why do you want to go there? Guandu Forest Park is new and beautiful and it’s free.” I tried to ask how far the suggested park was, but the translation app turned “How far is the park?” into profanity. I vigorously shook my head “no” and gave up. So, of course, the driver took me to the suggested park, 45 minutes away and $15.00 rather than 10 minutes and the $3.00 fare that I expected. I was frustrated, but I should have known better. After four previous trips to China, I have learned that communication is difficult and misunderstandings are frequent, even when simply trying to get from Point A to Point B.
Yellow-billed Grosbeak
The park was a typical Chinese city park – full of people, even a band playing – beautiful, but not conducive to productive birding. But, I quickly relaxed and enjoyed the lovely afternoon for a couple of hours. Even with all the activity, I found a little flock of Yellow-billed Grosbeaks, a species that the Zoothera group would not see at all.
Back at the hotel, I found a few birds on the edge of the parking area, including several White Wagtails. I find Wagtails very interesting and always try to photograph them. This was the first time that I saw an alboides subspecies and I thought that he was a rather snazzy looking bird, even in winter plumage.
White Wagtail, Motacilla alba alboides
That evening I enjoyed dinner with John Hopkins, another birder who had arrived early. The next day we met up with the rest of the group at the airport – ten participants and three guides. There was one other woman in the group, from Germany, and one man from Sweden. The rest of the group consisted of males from the UK except for our two Chinese guides. After a quick lunch, we were off on our adventure. Our first destination was Zixishan, a mountain park near Chuxiong, about three hours from Kunming. We arrived in time for a little birding before checking into our hotel and we found our two target birds right away – the endemic Yunnan Nuthatch and Giant Nuthatch. The Yunnan Nuthatch posed quite nicely for us at a close distance, not typical behavior we were told.
Yunnan Nuthatch
The following day, we started birding at Zixishan before sunrise. It was a nice morning and we saw a good number of birds. This Chinese Thrush sat on the side of the road and never moved, even as we moved closer and closer for photos. It was still sitting there when we left to look for other species.
Chinese Thrush
The afternoon brought a 6-hour drive to Lijiang where we hoped to see Biet’s Laughingthrush, my most wanted bird of the trip. But, alas, our good fortune at Zixishan did not continue at Lijiang. Despite several hours of intensive searching in the areas where the laughingthrush has historically been seen, we neither heard nor saw one. We learned that this rare bird is becoming increasingly difficult to find, perhaps in part due to illegal poaching for the caged bird trade.
The best birds at Lijiang were a pair of Rufous-tailed Babblers bouncing around the top of a big trash pile, singing almost constantly. Several of us just sat in the grass a few yards away with our cameras and click-click-clicked as these normally shy birds put on a fantastic close-up show for us.
Rufous-tailed Babbler
The others in our group had started teasing me about ducks almost as soon as our trip started. Apparently I was the only waterfowl enthusiast, or maybe ducks were just too easy for the more serious birders with life lists of over 6,000 species. I got my wish to see ducks on the morning that we left Lijiang with a quick stop at Lijiang Wetland Park. I loved it! There were hundreds of birds on the lake. I got much better looks at beautiful Ferruginous Ducks than I’d had previously. And, I even got three life birds. Surprisingly, I had never seen a real wild Graylag Goose before. Red-crested Pochard and Smew were also new.
Ferruginous Ducks
It seemed that everyone enjoyed our short time at the wetland despite their earlier claims that they didn’t care about ducks. I think that we could have stayed for hours and everyone would have been happy. But, we had a long drive ahead, so we couldn’t savor the ducks and wetland birds for long. Back in the van, the more experienced birders gave me a good lesson in separating Black-headed and Brown-headed Gulls. With their expert knowledge and my photos, I quickly learned that it really was easy to differentiate these two species.
Brown-headed and Black-headed Gulls with Graylag Geese. Even in this rather poor photo, you can easily note the larger size of the Brown-headed Gulls, the dark wingtips, and huge mirrors in the outermost primaries.
After leaving the Lijiang wetland, we drove 8 hours to Lushui. The next morning we continued through part of Gaoligongshan National Nature Reserve, over Pianma Pass (3,100 meters), and to the small town of Pianma near the Myanmar border where we would spend the next two nights. The first morning in this area started with one of the most thrilling sightings of the entire trip – and it was not a bird. It was a Red Panda sleeping in the sunshine in a bare tree! This charismatic little mammal (about the size of a house cat) is fascinating. It has thick fur on the soles of its feet. It uses that fluffy 18-inch tail to wrap around itself for warmth. The Smithsonian has more interesting facts about the Red Panda, a species classified as endangered with a population of less than 10,000 remaining in the wild.
The Red Panda as seen from the road.
A close-up of the adorable Red Panda. This is the view that we got through the scope. Photo by John Hopkins.
After the panda sighting, things were pretty slow. Actually, they were very slow and this was my least favorite part of the trip. The hotel was awful, it was cold, and we didn’t find our main target birds. For two full days, we traveled back and forth over Pianma Pass and birded along the road, which was always covered in a thin layer of ice except in sunny spots. On the second day, several of the others found some good birds by climbing up the side of the mountain on rough rather steep trails. I stayed on the road not wanting to wear myself out or trigger an asthma attack by too much activity at 3,100 meters. OK, I was a little lazy. But, my vision is so bad that I don’t think that I would have seen the birds anyway, even if I had scrambled up the mountainside. Just like on my 2012 trip with Nick, most of the others were in better physical shape and were much more experienced and skillful birders than me. But I didn’t miss one of the best birds of the day when late that afternoon we found this spectacular little bird, a Fire-tailed Myzornis.
Fire-tailed Myzornis. Photo by John Hopkins.
The following morning, we left for Baihualing and it’s many bird blinds, where I would be in birding heaven. Stay tuned.
Birding for Life 