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Argentina 2025 – Córdoba

Posted in South America, tagged Andean Tinamou, Argentina, Argentine Anole, Argentine Toad, Ash-colored Cuckoo, Black-bodied Woodpecker, Black-legged Seriema, Blue-crowned Parakeet, Córdoba, Chaco Earthcreeper, Chiguanco Thrush, Cordoba Cinclodes, Dark-billed Cuckoo, Dwarf Cupflower, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Long-tailed Meadowlark, Mexican Silverspot, Nutria, Pale-breasted Spinetail, Red-legged Seriema, Red-tailed Comet, Salinas Monjita, Toothpick Cactus, Ultramarine Grosbeak, Whistling Heron, White Woodpecker on August 23, 2026| Leave a Comment »

Sandra and I had a wonderful plan for the next phase of our South America adventure. We would fly from Montevideo to Posadas, a small city in the northeast corner of Argentina and the northern gateway to Iberá National Park. We would rent a car and drive south to Carlos Pellegrini, spend two nights there, and Sandra would get her lifer Strange-tailed Tyrant.

After our last day of birding in Uruguay on December 6, we checked our emails so we could check into our flights the following day. The screenshot below is from the message sent by Aerolineas Argentinas.

Confused? So were we. AEP and EZE are the two Buenos Aires airports, about an hour apart. Our flights had been changed. Now our flight from Montevideo was scheduled to arrive at AEP at 2:30 PM, and the flight to Posadas would leave from EZE at 1:50 PM. We spent some time trying to resolve these impossible flights before giving up and going to bed. The next morning, we couldn’t find a way to get to Posadas, so we extended our stay at our hotel another night and spent the day exploring other options. We had several days to fill before we were scheduled to fly to Santiago on December 11 for the last leg of our trip.

We pored over maps of South America and settled on Córdoba, Argentina. Sandra reached out to two people for help: the guide she had used several weeks earlier in Argentina, and the local guide on the Rockjumper Argentina trip she had finished just before my arrival. Between the two of them, we soon had a plan—and a guide of our own, Martin Toledo.

On Monday, December 8, we flew to Córdoba, where Martin met us. He told us his phone had been “blowing up” the previous day as both of Sandra’s contacts reached out to him about us. Martin wasted no time, and we were birding by 4:00 PM. He quickly found the Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper shown below, a new bird for me.

Chiguanco Thrush was another addition to my life list.

Two hummingbirds soon followed, Red-tailed Comet and Glittering-bellied Emerald, both new species for me. The comet was fast, making it difficult to photograph, but what a gorgeous bird, sparkling like a red and green Christmas ornament. We saw both male and female Glittering-bellied Emeralds, the male showing his glittering green belly, and the lovely female in the photo below.

The next morning started with a Chaco Earthcreeper, another bird with a fun name that I’d first seen just a week earlier in Entre Ríos.

Pale-breasted Spinetail had also been a lifer that same day in Entre Ríos, and I was happy to see this pretty bird again.

Next it was time for some cuckoo excitement. Laura had tried really hard to find an Ash-colored Cuckoo for us in Entre Ríos, without luck. This morning with Martin, we finally got a great look at one (photo on the left below), a lifer for both Sandra and me. Then two more cuckoos flew into the same tree! These two were Dark-billed Cuckoos, and they showed some cuckoo love right in front of us. In the photo on the right, I almost caught the action.

We’d started the day early to avoid the heat, and by 8:15 AM, we had arrived at Salinas Grandes, a vast salt flat stretching across several provinces of north-central Argentina. In Córdoba, the salt flats are bordered by sparse saline scrub and dry Chaco woodland.

We had come here seeking Salinas Monjita, a species whose range is restricted to the salt flats of the central Argentine lowlands. The monjita thrives in this barren-looking habitat. Happily, we found our target (in the photo below). Other species that inhabit this landscape include the more widespread Lesser Shrike-Tyrant and Patagonian Mockingbird, both of which we also saw.

Later that afternoon, I loved seeing this White Woodpecker. It was also fun to see a Blue-crowned Parakeet, and with that sighting, I lost my only realistic chance of getting a life bird in my home county. These parakeets are native to South America, but like many parrots and parakeets, they have become established in Florida.

At 7:20 PM, my last lifer of the day was this stunning Ultramarine Grosbeak.

We started our second full day in Córdoba with an iconic bird of South America, Black-legged Seriema. It belongs to a small family; Red-legged Seriema is the only other living member.

Seriemas are evolutionarily unique—the closest living relatives are falcons, parrots, and passerines. They are striking, prehistoric-looking birds with memorable vocalizations. I didn’t get a recording of the Black-legged Seriema, but here is a video of the similar-sounding Red-legged Seriema that I made the prior year in the Pantanal.

Black-bodied Woodpecker, a highly sought-after species, was our next target. The search was especially fun because we ran into a local birder that Martin knew from an online birding group, and this was their first time meeting in person. He’d seen the woodpecker earlier that morning and was excited to offer suggestions for where to look. We found the woodpecker, which reminded me of our Pileated Woodpecker in North America, although it is significantly smaller, about the same size as a Northern Flicker.

Here are the four of us, from left to right: Martin, his new friend, Sandra, and me.

From there we headed toward the higher elevation of Quebrada del Condorito National Park in search of a local endemic, Cordoba Cinclodes. I was pleased to see the bird, and I was lucky to get the photo below, which shows the striking wing pattern—the bases of the flight feathers form a broad, black-edged rufous band, the largest and brightest wing band of any Cinclodes.

We were also fortunate to see Olrog’s and White-winged Cinclodes, as well as Long-tailed Meadowlark (pictured below).

The habitat at Quebrada del Condorito was completely different from everywhere else we’d birded in Córdoba. It was beautiful and peaceful, with very few cars or people that afternoon.

We ended the day with a bird that is special to Martin, Olive-crowned Crescentchest. Martin did his master’s research on this species, and we loved seeing it, a lifer for both Sandra and me, even though it was a bit too shy to get a good photo. At the same location, I was also thrilled to see this Andean Tinamou. Somehow I’d gotten the impression that it was a difficult bird to see, but now I think most birders who visit the area likely do see it. Either way, it was a lovely end to a great day.

On December 11, our last day with Martin, I picked up three more life birds: a coot, a grebe, and a duck, but my favorite sighting was this Whistling Heron. Martin told us locals call it the “rainbow bird.” I had seen these colorful herons before, but never so well.

Our last stop was at 3:00 PM on the way to the airport. We had just 20 minutes to try to find Dinelli’s Doradito, a potential lifer that Sandra wanted very much. It would have been a life bird for me, too, if I’d seen it. Just before our time was up, Martin called out that he had it, and I went running down the hard-packed dirt road toward him. There was a dip in the road that I knew was there, but my attention was elsewhere, and down I went. My first concern was my camera, which was fine, thankfully. Next, my attention went to my ankle, which had twisted in the fall. I hobbled back to the car.

Sandra got her doradito, and I got points with Martin, who thought I was a very nice person for being happy for my friend despite my fall. We all assumed that my ankle was sprained and we headed to the airport, where Martin did everything he could to take care of us—handling our luggage, buying anti-inflammatories, and getting a wheelchair for me. And then we were off to Santiago!

Beyond the birds, Córdoba is home to an incredibly rich and diverse ecosystem. A few highlights below: Argentine Anole, Nutria, Dwarf Cupflower, Argentine Toad, Toothpick Cactus, and Mexican Silverspot.

Sandra and I were very glad we made the last-minute decision to spend a few days birding in Córdoba. Martin was a wonderful guide—a great birder, kind, fun—and in only three days, he found all the expected endemic birds of the area for us. It was an exciting adventure in a beautiful part of the world, bookended by two mishaps, our impossible flights and my “sprained” ankle. I’ll never forget it.

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Uruguay 2025

Posted in South America, tagged Birding With Me, Black-and-white Monjita, Chivi Vireo, Cinereous Harrier, Curve-billed Reedhaunter, Glaucous-blue Grosbeak, Grassland Yellow-Finch, Gray-throated Warbling-Finch, Great Grebe, Kelp Gull, Long-winged Harrier, Rufous-capped Antshrike, Rusty-collared Seedeater, Saffron-cowled Blackbird, Snowy-crowned Tern, Southern Lapwing, Uruguay, Urutu Lancehead, Warbling Doradito on July 19, 2026| Leave a Comment »

Uruguay was my contribution to the scope creep that turned my trip with Sandra last fall into more than a month in South America. “Look at the map! We’ll be in Buenos Aires, and Montevideo is right across the river. I’ve wanted to go to Uruguay since I was in high school.” Sandra quickly found Florencia Ocampo, founder of Birding With Me and co-author of the new field guide Birds of Uruguay, and just like that, Florencia had arranged a short tour for us.

We flew to Montevideo on December 4, checked into the lovely Cala di Volpe Boutique Hotel, and headed out for a little afternoon birding. I picked up two life birds right away—Great Grebe and Kelp Gull. I got better looks at both species later in Chile, where I took the photos below of the grebe with its “teenage” offspring and the big dark-winged Kelp Gull, but it was a great start.

Early the next morning, our guide for the next two days, Mauricio Silvera, picked us up. On our way out of the city, we stopped for his colleague, Pilar Camejo, who arrived at the car with an amazing homemade breakfast.

Mauricio wasted no time finding birds. Black-necked Swan, Chilean Flamingo, and Long-winged Harrier were all lifers for me. Hellmayr’s Pipit and the striking Black-and-white Monjita in the photo below were lifers for both of us. The monjita, with its limited range, was our only sighting during our entire month in South America. Amazingly, Mauricio spotted this bird as we were driving on a major highway.

In addition to the birds, I soon had another exciting wildlife sighting—the Urutu Lancehead below.

Later that afternoon, we made an unplanned visit to a little area near our hotel that turned into one of my favorite experiences of the day. What a treat to get such a clear look at the Rufous-capped Antshrike below—a small, perfect moment in a day full of good birds.

Same spot, another lifer—this pretty Gray-throated Warbling-Finch. Two new birds for my life list, and a wonderful end to our serious birding for the day.

Our bonus birds that evening were an adult and juvenile Southern Lapwing right in front of our hotel. I could have spent another hour photographing them, but it was time for dinner, and the others were not going to indulge me any longer. Lapwings are ubiquitous in South America; nine of our checklists over our two days in Uruguay included them. Still, babies are adorable and hard to walk away from!

Day two brought more life birds for both of us. We started with Curve-billed Reedhaunter, known as skulking and reclusive, so I was thrilled to photograph two different individuals. One appeared to be an immature bird, due to the light-colored bill. It was noticeably more confiding as well, typical of young birds, making it easier to photograph.

In that same reedbed habitat, we tracked down a Warbling Doradito—smaller and, reputedly, harder to see than the reedhaunter. I was thrilled to see this pretty bird, too, a very satisfying sighting of another bird with a fun name.

Cinereous Harrier (on the left below) was another lifer for me in this productive birding area. I was able to compare it to Long-winged Harrier (on the right) at the same spot for a nice side-by-side study.

One of Sandra’s favorites was Glaucous-blue Grosbeak. It is in the cardinal family, like the North American Blue Grosbeak, but it’s a little smaller and generally more shy. We were fortunate when this beautiful bird perched in the open and allowed us such a clear view.

Other great birds that day included the Rusty-collared Seedeater, Grassland Yellow-Finch, and Chivi Vireo below. The Vireo photo isn’t great, but I was happy to get any look at all, especially as I’d missed it multiple times earlier in the trip. It is a widespread and common bird in South America, but like the Red-eyed Vireo at home, it’s easier to hear than to see.

The star of the day—perhaps the star of our Uruguay birding—was the gorgeous Saffron-cowled Blackbird. Mauricio was elated to estimate 150 birds in the flock of this rapidly declining species. Seeing such a large flock of these birds was a truly unforgettable spectacle, made all the more poignant by the vulnerability of the species.

My final life bird of the trip was the Snowy-crowned Tern that I’d really wanted. In the photo below, it’s the lighter bird with the black mask.

It was difficult to believe that we’d packed so much into just two days of birding. The group trip report contains 125 species. I gained 17 life birds, and Sandra, who has birded far more extensively than I have, including recently in nearby Argentina, added six lifers. Uruguay had started as an easy add-on to our South American itinerary, but it had quickly contributed some captivating highlights to our trip.

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Argentina 2025 – Buenos Aires & Entre Ríos

Posted in South America, tagged Argentina, Brazilian Guinea Pig, Brown-and-yellow Marshbird, Buenos Aires, Burrowing Owl, Ceibas, Checkered Woodpecker, Coscoroba Swan, Dark-throated Seedeater, Entre Ríos, Firewood Gatherer, Giant Wood Rail, Gilded Hummingbird, Gilded Sapphire, Golden-billed Saltator, Grassland Sparrow, Lark-like Brushrunner, Monk Parakeet, Picazuro Pigeon, Red-crested Cardinal, Ringed Teal, Rock Pigeon, Rosy-billed Pochard, Scarlet-headed Blackbird, Spectacled Tyrant, Spotted Nothura, White-tipped Plantcutter on July 7, 2026| Leave a Comment »

Sandra and I arrived in Buenos Aires late on November 29 and went directly to our lodging, a lovely place that even had “luxury apartments” in its name. For the first time in over two weeks, we didn’t have to set our alarms. The next morning, we ventured out and got an impression of the city: pleasant, clean, and modern. Our first bird was this friendly Rock Pigeon, who seemed determined to join us for breakfast.

Our plan was to bird Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur on our own, but the park was closed, apparently due to expected rain. We birded the edge of the park from outside the fence before the rain became too heavy. We had only a dozen species on our list, but two of those were life birds for me: Rosy-billed Pochard and Chimichanga Caracara. Oops! That’s actually Chimango Caracara, but once I’d dubbed it “Chimichanga Caracara”, it remained that for the rest of the trip. I also got my best ever look at a Picazuro Pigeon. In other places they had been a bit shy, but here they were nearly as tame as the Rock Pigeons.

We enjoyed a lazy afternoon and got some much-needed rest before our guide, Laura Dodyk, and driver, Dani Alvarez, picked us up early the next morning. We headed to Ceibas, a legendary birding destination just two hours north of Buenos Aires. Birders love Ceibas for packing wetlands, grasslands, thorn scrub, and woodlands into one small area—a rare combination that makes it possible to see a high number of species in a short time.

The day got off to a great start with my lifer Freckle-breasted Thornbird and Black-capped Warbling Finch at our first stop. Five more life birds quickly followed at Predio del Hotel Ceibas, our home for the next two nights.

Who doesn’t love woodpeckers? I do! And, this adorable Checkered Woodpecker became one of my all-time favorites. He may not be the biggest or flashiest woodpecker, but he more than makes up for it in cuteness and personality.

Another lifer at the hotel was this White-naped Xenopsaris, a bird that Laura said is usually challenging to see.

The birding was quite easy as we drove miles of rural dirt roads, where we could stop and walk along the road, never far from our car. We continued to rack up the lifers until I had 22 new birds on our first day with Laura and Dani. See more of my favorites from this day in the gallery below. Click on any image for a larger view and caption.

The expansive wetlands near Ceibas provide habitat for many species of waterfowl, and we were able to bird these areas right from the road. In the photos below, some of my lifers: Ringed Teal, Coscoroba Swan, and a Rosy-billed Pochard pair. Rosy-billed Pochard had actually been a life bird the previous day at Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, but I hadn’t been able to photograph it before the rain began.

The Ceibas area also has arid habitats, like low, thorny acacia scrublands where species such as this Lark-like Brushrunner thrive. I liked this bird so much that it gets its own gallery.

I also liked seeing Monk Parakeets in their native range, which encompasses northern Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, and the southern parts of Bolivia and Brazil. They have become established in many parts of the world, including a sizable population right where I live in Florida, mostly due to escapees and releases from the pet trade. Monk Parakeets are unusual among parrots because they’re one of only two species that build nests rather than nesting in tree cavities. The resulting nests are big, bulky masses of sticks—often large communal structures, with each pair having its own “apartment.”

This little Brazilian Guinea Pig was another fun sighting. I’m as happy to see new mammals and other wildlife as I am to see new birds.

Our second day with Laura and Dani was fun, too, and I was thrilled to get life birds like the Dark-throated Seedeater, Spotted Nothura, and Golden-billed Saltator in the following gallery. Nothura is a genus of small tinamou, and this was my first sighting of one—and still my only Nothura.

I’ve seen quite a few Burrowing Owls, but I never get tired of them. Firewood Gatherer was not a life bird either, but it was also nice to see. Perhaps I’m just fascinated with its name. And Grassland Sparrow has become one of my favorites. Like many birders, I have a soft spot for the Ammodramus sparrows, the genus that includes the familiar Grasshopper Sparrow of North America.

We didn’t have as much time on our third and final day with Laura, but I got a few life birds, with my favorite being the stunning Scarlet-headed Blackbird.

For the obligatory hummingbird in any post about birding in the Americas, I present this Gilded Hummingbird, soon to be known to eBirders as Gilded Sapphire when Cornell adopts the new AviList taxonomy.

Sadly, I didn’t get any photos of Laura or Dani or any landscape shots because we never stopped birding. It was a great introduction to Argentina, and I was thrilled to get 39 life birds in just a few short days. I frequently end posts by saying that I want to visit a country again. Well, this time it came quickly, but not exactly as Sandra and I had planned. Stay tuned as I share more adventures from our month in South America.

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Brazil 2025 – Transition Zone and Heart of the Cerrado (Part 3 of 3)

Posted in South America, tagged Black-throated Saltator, Brazilian Merganser, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Cliff Flycatcher, Cock-tailed Tyrant, Curl-crested Jay, Dubois's Seedeater, Giant Cowbird, Hangnest Tody-Tyrant, Hyacinth Visorbearer, Lined Seedeater, Maned Wolf, Peach-fronted Parakeet, Pileated Finch, Santuário do Caraça, Serra da Canastra, Sharp-tailed Tyrant, White-eared Puffbird on June 18, 2026| Leave a Comment »

At Santuário do Caraça in 1982, Father Tobias, a resident priest, discovered that a Maned Wolf was responsible for nightly raids on the monastery’s garbage cans. To discourage the animal from scavenging, food was placed in a designated area. More than forty years later, the tradition continues. The sanctuary is relatively isolated, surrounded by a large protected reserve, and visitors can stay in the monastery’s guesthouse for a chance to see one of South America’s most iconic mammals.

The wolves are closely monitored by researchers, and many of the animals visiting the monastery wear GPS radio collars. The monitoring program tracks their movements, health, and behavior. Studies have shown that the wolves continue to range widely, hunt naturally, and maintain normal wild behavior despite their nightly visits.

I was excited when I saw Santuário do Caraça on our itinerary because seeing a Maned Wolf was one of the experiences I most wanted in Brazil, second only to seeing birds.

Santuário do Caraça lies in a transition zone where Atlantic Forest, Cerrado savanna, and Campos Rupestres (rocky fields) overlap, creating an exceptionally diverse mix of habitats. This convergence of ecosystems supports a remarkable variety of plants and animals. More than 400 bird species have been reported, making Caraça one of the premier birding destinations in southeastern Brazil.

The wolves are wild animals and do not visit the sanctuary every night. None appeared on our first night, November 24. The following day, we enjoyed excellent birding on the trails around the sanctuary. This Hyacinth Visorbearer, a life bird for both Sandra and me, was a highlight.

Sandra was also thrilled to get her lifer Gilt-edged Tanager here, a stunning species that I had been fortunate to see in 2024 at Ecolodge Itororó.

A Hangnest Tody-Tyrant, a tiny flycatcher endemic to Brazil, was another lifer for me. I initially thought the name was odd, but it’s actually quite descriptive. These birds build hanging nests suspended from horizontal branches above streams.

Late that afternoon, Sandra and I were in our room when she was looking out the window and excitedly called me over. There, in the grassy area near the parked cars, lay a Maned Wolf. We were surprised and thrilled. The photo below was taken a little later, after she got up and spent some time standing at the base of the steps leading up to the terrace, where a crowd of hopeful visitors waited and watched.

At 7:30 PM, food is set out for the wolves, and a sanctuary staff member gives a talk about the animals and the viewing rules: be still and quiet, no flash photography. A short time later, just after dark, the wolf cautiously made her way up the steps and nervously began eating. Even while feeding, she remained alert, frequently pausing to scan her surroundings. Although she may have been uneasy about the 15 to 20 people watching her, Maned Wolves are naturally wary. As solitary animals, they are constantly alert for predators and competitors.

The next morning, we were out early for our final bird walk at the sanctuary.

One of the highlights was Dubois’s Seedeater, another life bird for both Sandra and me.

However, one of our favorite birds was not a lifer, but this sweet Cliff Flycatcher that was nesting on a windowsill of the building where our rooms were located.

After a late breakfast, we left the sanctuary and headed towards Serra da Canastra. It was a long driving day, and by 2:00 PM, we still had not had lunch when we stopped for a potty break. We went into the little restaurant, and I asked Cirilo why we didn’t eat lunch there. He replied that he thought we would want something nicer. My response was that it was good enough, and look at that view. We filled out plates with what Cirilo described as “honest” food (not bad with a few basic choices) and sat by the table with the view. I hadn’t even realized until then that there were a couple of bird feeders set up. It wasn’t long until a Pileated Finch appeared, and I had another life bird. What started as an unplanned stop for a quick break turned into one of my favorite memories of the trip.

We also saw this female seedeater at the little restaurant, but we were unable to identify the species. Female seedeaters can be notoriously difficult to identify, and many look so similar that they cannot be identified with confidence.

We arrived at Serra da Canastra later that evening, where we would spend two full days birding, November 27-28, the final destination of our Brazil trip. Our primary target was Brazilian Merganser, one of the rarest and most threatened waterfowl species in the world. The total population is believed to be fewer than 250 individuals, and Serra da Canastra is one of the species’ strongholds and among the best places to search for it.

We spent much of our first day searching the rivers for Brazilian Merganser, but had no luck. Even so, we saw quite a few other birds, including those in the following gallery: Peach-fronted Parakeet, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Giant Cowbird, and Lined Seedeater.

Early the next day, we enjoyed wonderful views of Cock-tailed Tyrant, another major target at Serra da Canastra, and one of Sandra’s most wanted birds. Adult males possess a comical, oversized, and uniquely twisted tail that they hold perpendicular to their bodies. Their unusual tail and bouncy display flights have earned them the local nickname “Galito.” Sandra described these vulnerable little flycatchers as “a clown of a bird,” and it was easy to see why. However, my favorite nickname might be one bestowed by a non-birding friend after I shared a photo on Facebook. She declared that she loved my “Cocktail Tyrant.”

Another vulnerable tyrant flycatcher that I found especially appealing was the Sharp-tailed Tyrant.

We also saw the adorable White-eared Puffbird. Although Sandra and I had both seen the species before, it’s one of those birds that never loses its charm.

Other birds photographed on our second day included Black-throated Saltator and Curl-crested Jay.

Once again, we spent much of the day searching the rivers for Brazilian Merganser. Near the end of the afternoon, our local guide decided to return to a spot we had already visited earlier. It was a 17-mile drive each way on very rough roads. As we scanned the river, our guide suddenly became excited and announced that he had found a merganser. He was looking far upstream, and neither Sandra nor I could see it. I pointed my camera in that direction and clicked the shutter. Sandra did not see the bird at all, and I can count it only because I got the terrible photo below. After spending two days searching for one of the world’s rarest ducks, this was a huge disappointment for both of us.

Below, the lovely spot where we “saw” the Brazilian Merganser.

Although it was sad to end the trip on such a disappointing note, it had been an amazing adventure. Cirilo and Paulo took excellent care of us and were fun companions throughout the journey. Sandra and I both added many life birds–71 for Sandra and 92 for me. We had explored new parts of Brazil, met wonderful people, and created memories that will last a lifetime. Brazil is a country I’ve come to love and hope to visit again.

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Brazil 2025 – Highlands and Savannah (Part 2 of 3)

Posted in South America, tagged Araucaria angustifolia, Araucaria Moist Forest, Black-masked Finch, Campo Flicker, Campos do Jordão, Cerrado, Chapada Flycatcher, Chestnut-capped Foliage-gleaners, Chotoy Spinetail, Crested Black Tyrant, Great Pampa Finch, Laughing Falcon, Least Nighthawk, Ocellated Crake, Paint-billed Crake, Pearly-bellied Seedeater, Plumbeous Seedeater, Pompéu, Pouso Alegre, Red-breasted Toucan, Tawny-bellied Seedeater, Yellow-bellied Seedeater, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Yellow-rumped Marshbird on June 2, 2026| Leave a Comment »

On November 20, we spent most of the day traveling northeast toward Campos do Jordão and the high-elevation Araucaria forests of the Serra da Mantiqueira. At 1,628 meters (5,341 feet) above sea level, Campos do Jordão is the highest city in Brazil. As we approached this region, the landscape changed noticeably.

The Araucaria Moist Forest stretches from lower plateaus around 500 meters to mountain slopes above 1,600 meters, supporting a remarkable number of endemic plants and birds, including the Araucaria Tit-Spinetail (which I saw, but unfortunately did not photograph). Towering Araucaria angustifolia, the Brazilian pine, dominates the forest. This critically endangered conifer’s lineage dates back roughly 200 million years to the age of dinosaurs.

We birded in forest areas outside the city for most of the next day. Bay-chested Warbling Finch, Velvety Black-Tyrant, White-crested Tyrannulet, Black Hawk-Eagle, Rufous-tailed Antbird, Red-legged Seriema, Great Pampa Finch (in photo below), and quite a few other species contributed to a nice morning.

Sandra’s goal is to see half of the world’s 11,131 birds, currently 5,566 species. But seeing 5,000 birds is also a significant accomplishment. We were doing well on this trip, and Sandra had been paying special attention that morning. When we arrived back at the hotel at lunchtime, her life list was at 4,999. As we watched the area with a small feeder, our guide, Douglas, suddenly spotted this Red-breasted Toucan — Sandra’s 5,000th bird!

We were all delighted to celebrate this milestone with Sandra. From front to back: Cirilo, Sandra, me, Douglas, and Paulo—smiles all around.

That afternoon, we birded a bit more and spotted a Laughing Falcon and a Crested Black Tyrant, shown in the photos below. Neither was a life bird for us, but can one ever see too many Laughing Falcons? And, the Crested Black Tyrant, always cute, was a fun sighting.

Later that day, we drove to Pouso Alegre where we spent the night. The next morning, after continuing on our way, we stopped to enjoy a small group of Campo Flickers on an ant mound, a species I first saw in the Pantanal on my 2024 trip to Brazil. I was pleased that several birds I associated with the Pantanal, including the flickers, turned up again on this trip.

This turned into an eventful day when our car broke down, and we were stranded on the side of the road. Paulo knew exactly what was wrong. He got a ride to a nearby gas station and returned with the necessary part and a mechanic. Meanwhile, Cirilo got a ride for the rest of us to the famous seedeater spot, our destination for the day, which was conveniently close by. The farmer who gave us a ride knew there would be other birders there, and we could ask for a ride back to the car after birding.

Birding at the seedeater spot was fun and, as promised, we saw seedeaters. In the photos below, Pearly-bellied Seedeater, Yellow-bellied Seedeater, and Tawny-bellied Seedeater.

There were more than seedeaters here, and we really enjoyed this spot. This photo is my favorite of a Yellow-chinned Spinetail that I’ve taken. You can see why “spinetail” is in the name.

I was also delighted by the flocks of Yellow-rumped Marshbirds.

The highlight here for Cirilo was a very unexpected Bobolink, a life bird for him. They winter in South America, but typically much farther west.

We shared all these birds with this very friendly group of birders. Francisco, one of the guys we met that day, even tracked me down via eBird and sent me an email with the following photo. As promised, we got a ride back to our car, which had been repaired and was ready to go. I couldn’t help but think that if the breakdown had happened at home in the US, there would have been a much longer and more expensive delay—and it wouldn’t have included life birds and new friends! We continued on our journey and arrived in Pompéu that night as planned.

We had a wonderful day on November 23 in Pompéu with our guide Afonso. Our first bird was a snazzy Blue Finch, which we saw well, but it was too quick for a good photo. I also liked the simple sweetness of a Chapada Flycatcher.

Another “good” bird that morning was a Black-masked Finch.

Maybe I should call this the “Seedeater Trip.” Yes, another new one—Plumbeous Seedeater.

I loved the landscape of scattered trees, shrubs, and open grasslands. We were now in the Cerrado, a vast tropical savanna in central Brazil known for its exceptional biodiversity and ranked among the world’s biologically richest savannas. The cerrado was the habitat I had most looked forward to birding in during our time in Brazil.

It’s easier to see birds here than in dense forest, and there are little surprises everywhere if you look closely. This photo was taken at our first stop of the morning, where we saw the above birds as well as Coal-crested Finch, Black-throated Saltator, Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch, and others.

A little later that morning, we watched a Southern Scrub-Flycatcher on her nest feeding young. Another highlight came at mid-day when Afonso found not one, but two, Least Nighthawks roosting on the ground. These gorgeous birds are so well camouflaged that I’m amazed he was able to find them.

We had also tried to find and see the notoriously secretive Ocellated Crake at a couple of spots, but our quest was unsuccessful that day. Afonso and his brother Luiz are famous among birders for their ability to track and “tame” these elusive birds, but even with their skills, birds are never guaranteed.

Fortunately, we had more time in Pompéu the following day and Afonso found the crake at our first stop. In the photo below, a beautiful Ocellated Crake, a highlight of the trip for me.

In addition to being a master crake finder, Afonso was one of the nicest people I’ve ever met, and I enjoyed our time with him. I will always remember his patience as he helped me navigate tall reeds and uneven ground while we made our way to a couple of spots where we looked for the crake. And when we saw special birds, he shared our happiness and seemed just as excited as we were. Here, Afonso is cleaning Sandra’s shoes after birding at a spot that was super muddy, leaving over an inch of extremely sticky stuff stuck to our shoes. This willingness to work so hard, the shared joy, and the kindness are what make birding so special.

Our morning was not yet over. At spots near the edge of town, we saw at least five Chestnut-capped Foliage-gleaners, including the adult and immature in the photo below. Other special birds seen that morning were Paint-billed Crake and Chotoy Spinetail, also displayed in the following gallery.

Our hearts full after an amazing morning of birding, we left for the long drive to Santuário do Caraça.

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Brazil 2025 – The Atlantic Forest (Part 1 of 3)

Posted in South America, tagged Atlantic Forest, Atlantic Royal Flycatcher, Black-hooded Antwren, Brazil 2025, Brown Tinamou, Buff-throated Purpletuft, Hooded Berryeater, Imperial Moth, Intervales State Park, Large Elaenia, Marsh Antwren, Orange-breasted Thornbird, Purple-crowned Plovercrest, Red-and-white Crake, Red-breasted Toucan, Rufous-capped Antthrush, Rufous-headed Tanager, Rufous-tailed Attila, Sítio Macuquinho, Spot-backed Antshrike, White-breasted Tapaculo, White-eyed Foliage-Gleaner, White-shouldered Fire-eye on May 27, 2026| 3 Comments »

Scope creep and FOMO were responsible for my month-long trip to South America in late 2025. It started with Brazil. My friend Sandra and I had both visited before, and we both wanted to return. After carefully planning a trip for the second half of November, Sandra discovered a pelagic trip in Chile that she really wanted to do. There was just one problem: it didn’t depart until December 13, leaving a sizable gap to fill. Argentina was added to the itinerary and, once I realized how close Buenos Aires was to Montevideo, I wanted to include Uruguay, too. I’m a full partner in the scope creep, although Sandra owns the Fear Of Missing Out. Fortunately, I usually benefit from it as well.

Below, a beautiful Red-breasted Toucan awaited us in Brazil. You’ll have to wait until Part 2 to learn the significance of this particular bird.

Cirilo Vieira had previously guided both of us — separately — at Ecolodge Itororó, so choosing him to lead us again was easy. Andy Foster of Serra dos Tucanos Birding Tours handled the logistics, including arranging local guides at several key locations.

We planned to arrive a day early to rest and recover, but like many travel plans, things did not go as expected. My trip south turned into a nightmare of delays that included an unplanned overnight stay in Miami. After roughly two hours of sleep, we met Cirilo and Paulo, our driver, in Rio de Janeiro on November 14 to begin our drive south along the coast. I was functioning mostly on caffeine and adrenaline.

Our first target was Black-hooded Antwren, an extremely localized species found only along a narrow stretch of coastline between Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. Cirilo quickly found this prize and I even managed a photo.

We ended the day in Ubatuba and had time for a little birding before settling into our hotel. Even though I’d birded this area on my 2024 trip, Cirilo expertly found two special birds that evening — White-shouldered Fire-eye, a lifer for me, and Spot-backed Antshrike, a life bird for both of us.

Buff-throated Purpletuft is a rare little bird, less than four inches long, endemic to Brazil, and highly localized. It is widely considered difficult to see. On the morning of November 15, we arrived at the same spot we had birded the previous afternoon and the purpletuft was almost the first bird we saw. Sandra and I were thrilled to see this little jewel so well and to add it to our life lists.

After birding the rest of the morning at this productive spot, we made a quick stop at Sitio Folha Seca for hummingbirds. Then it was on to Sítio Macuquinho, which had been one of my favorite places on my earlier trip to Brazil. That visit had been just a few hours, but this time we would stay two nights.

Our full day at Sítio Macuquinho was magical. The very talented guide and owner, Elvis, found many wonderful birds for us. I was especially happy to see the São Paulo Marsh Antwren, a bird that the others had seen on my 2024 trip, but I just couldn’t get my binoculars on that quick little bird then. Click on the photos in the gallery below to see species names.

The most magical experience of the entire month-long trip occurred that evening. Sandra described it well: “a dusk show of several Long-trained Nightjars coursing back and forth over us while fireflies popped around us, all in the near-quiet of gentle insects chorusing nearby.” It was one of those rare moments of complete immersion; we stood there awestruck, spellbound by the spectacle unfolding around us.

After a couple of hours birding at Sítio Macuquinho again the next morning, we reluctantly said goodbye to our hosts and spent most of the day on November 17 driving to Intervales State Park. The park protects more than 40,000 hectares as part of the largest remaining mosaic of Atlantic Forest conservation areas, preserving one of the world’s most biodiverse and threatened ecosystems. In addition to its many trails and birding areas, Intervales also offers lodging and a restaurant within the park boundary.

We were aided by Gerson, our local guide at Intervales. His extensive knowledge of the park enabled him to show us some amazing birds; I added 24 species to my life list in just over two days there. A few of my favorites are shown in the gallery below.

Intervales gave us many happy moments. I was thrilled to feed my lifer Solitary Tinamou. My beloved Red-and-white Crakes scurried around in shallow water just a few feet from us. A Green-backed Trogon was so close to the lodge where we took refuge from the rain that I got a photo with my cell phone. We saw the highly sought-after, nomadic Pileated Parrot. I even got a look — and a blurry photo — of a Rufous-breasted Leaftosser as it stealthily dug in the leaf litter, a species that is notoriously secretive and often difficult to see.

Sandra’s favorite bird was this spectacular little Atlantic Royal Flycatcher, an endemic to southeastern Brazil, and a species that had been among her most-wanted birds for many years.

Watching this pretty bird in the sun-dappled branches over a narrow river was another perfect experience. Our little group was alone in the quiet forest and it felt as if the flycatcher had allowed us to enter his world.

Paulo discovered moths outside our rooms at the lodge and I enjoyed that bonus. Look at these beauties!

Some of you probably recognize the Imperial Moth. Yes, it’s the same species we have at home in the US. Here’s a range map from iNaturalist showing its wide distribution. Nature is amazing and I find that I learn something new on every trip.

As always, it was difficult to leave a place as wonderful as Intervales State Park. But on the morning of November 20, we left for our next destination, where more adventures awaited us.

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Brazil 2024 Part 3b – Eco Lodge Itororó

Posted in South America, tagged Amazon Lava Lizard, Black-necked Aracari, Blackish Rail, Blue Dacnis, Brassy-breasted Tanager, Brazil, Brazilian Squirrel, Cinnamon Tanager, Crested Black-Tyrant, Eco Lodge Itororó, Firewood-gatherer, Grassland Sparrow, Magpie Tanager, Mouse-colored Tapaculo, Pico da Caledônia, Plain Parakeet, Saffron Toucanet, Savanna Hawk, Streamer-tailed Tyrant, Tres Picos State Park, White-bearded Manakin, White-eared Puffbird, Wing-banded Hornero, Yellow Cururu Toad, Yellow-headed Caracara on January 24, 2025| Leave a Comment »

We arrived at Eco Lodge Itororó late in the afternoon of August 26 with just enough time for Derek to get five life birds before dinner with a Brazilian Ruby hummingbird as #1,200. It was much colder and foggier here than it had been at REGUA due to the higher elevation. This part of Brazil is south of the equator so it was the middle of winter. We piled wool blankets on our beds and tucked in the hot water bottles provided by the lodge for extra warmth. Below, the main lodge building where we had our meals.

Cirilo, our guide for the next few days, joined us for breakfast and then we set off on the wonderful Three-toed Jacamar excursion. Our first stop was a little spot on the side of the road by a wetland. Cirilo had promised us Blackish Rail and he delivered. A dependable rail? I was amazed!

This stop also gave us a few other birds – Toco Toucan, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, and Wing-banded Hornero being the highlights. I thought this hornero was sharper looking than the others I’d seen in Brazil.

More wonderful birds awaited us at our next stop, including this Black-necked Aracari.

At our third stop, we watched a Yellow-headed Caracara standing on a horse picking off ticks. The caracara also “picks flesh from open wounds on backs of cattle, which often seem oddly indifferent to the process” according to Birds of the World. But, that is “cheating” according to the cleaning symbiosis contract. Yes, “cheating” is the word that I found in scientific publications. Black Vultures occasionally clean capybaras, but several species of caracaras are the only raptors that clean large mammals.

We saw spectacular Stramer-tailed Tyrants in another horse field.

Down the road a bit farther, Derek got his much-wanted lifer Red-legged Seriema. And, we both got our lifer Crested Black-Tyrant. First, we had a distant look, but good enough to count the bird. It came closer for a better look. And, finally, the bird was right in front of us!

Cirilo could not have made it more fun if he’d had the magic ability to choreograph the bird’s movements. At the same stop, I was very happy to get a good look at a Grassland Sparrow. I’d missed the bird earlier in the trip with Sherry’s group, so it was especially satisfying to see it well.

White-eared Puffbirds were the highlight for me at our next stop. What could be more adorable?

It was a great stop with several life birds for both of us. One of the most interesting was Firewood-gatherer. First, what a cool name. And, see why with these photos of the birds and their nest.

This was one of my favorite days of birding ever. In addition to the wonderful birds, the landscape was very appealing. I loved this coral tree topped with White-eyed Parakeets.

At another horse pen, we had an intriguing bird that we couldn’t immediately identify, this beautiful immature Savanna Hawk.

We finally stopped for lunch and ate our sandwiches while we continued to look at birds, including Derek’s lifer Black-capped Donacobius. Soon we were back on the road headed towards the last birding stop of the day and the signature species on this route, Three-toed Jacamar, a Brazilian endemic that only occurs in a limited area north of Rio de Janeiro. We saw the jacamar, but the light was bad, so my photos are not very good. This White-bearded Manakin chose a spot on the other side of the road with better lighting for his photo.

Cirilo guided us on the trails around the lodge on the morning of our second full day at Eco Lodge Itororó. He found 47 species of birds for us, although I found it much harder to see birds in the dense Atlantic Forest than the open countryside of the previous day. I missed quite a few birds, but it was an enjoyable morning and only having Cirilo for half a day resulted in incredibly good luck. When we returned to the lodge for lunch, we found the photography group happily clicking away at a gorgeous Saffron Toucanet right at the feeders. This is the species that everyone wants to see and this was its only appearance during our five days there.

We spent the afternoon mostly watching the feeders, one of my favorite activities. The Magpie Tanagers were huge compared to the little Brassy-breasted Tanagers and I loved them. The Magpie Tanagers favored the feeder offering avocados.

Below, a cute little Brassy-breasted Tanager.

On August 29, we birded in Tres Picos State Park. Our walks included a short trek to see a locally famous Jequitibá tree. Scenes in the 2024 version of the Brazilian telenovela, Renascer, were filmed here as the tree plays a central role in the story. It replaces the 3,000 year old tree used in the 1993 version of the TV show which was struck by lightenng and died. As you can see from this photo of Cirilo in front of the tree, it is huge.

We also found this cute little toad on one of our paths through the forest, a Yellow Cururu Toad.

We stopped at the banana stand on our way back to the lodge. They feed leftover bananas to the birds making it a great place for a coffee and chlorophonias, tanagers, euphonias, parakeets, and other birds. Here’s a poorly named Plain Parakeet we watched there.

Derek and I had originally planned to bird on our own on the following day, but finding birds in the forest was more challenging than we had expected. Fortunately, Cirilo was available to guide us for one more day. But, where to go? We had already done all the easy trails. At dinner, Cirilo had an idea. Birders usually walk up a steep hill for the high-elevation excursion to Pico da Caledônia. Since there were only two of us, however, he was able to arrange a 4-wheel drive vehicle that could drive us almost to the top and we could walk down. Perfect!

The day got off to a wonderful start when Cirilo heard a Mouse-colored Tapaculo on the side of the road. We stopped the car and he pointed to a log in a little opening in the vegetation where he expected it to cross. I pointed my camera at the log and quickly clicked as the little bird stopped for a fraction of a second.

Again, most of the forest birding was challenging, but the only important bird that we missed was the very localized Gray-winged Cotinga which occurs only in a small area northeast of Rio de Janeiro. With only 374 observations in eBird (some of which are certainly heard-only birds), many others must also miss the cotinga.

We walked about halfway up the 650-step staircase to the summit of Pico da Caledônia.

Later that afternoon, we saw the most unexpected bird of the day, a Zone-tailed Hawk. Cirilo was excited because this was a new state bird for him. Most American birders know this bird from the Southwest US, but the southern edge of its range extends to Paragray and this part of Brazil, although it is uncommon there in winter.

My “bonus week” with Derek in the Atlantic forest went quickly. All that remained was one more morning with a few hours to leisurely watch the feeders. Blue Dacnis is common throughout much of Central and South America. The male is blue, but the beautiful female is a lovely shade of green.

Cinnamon Tanager was a species that I saw only at Eco Lodge Itororó. When I was going through my photos, I realized that I did not know how to differentiate the males and females, so I looked it up in Birds of the World where I found this fascinating information. “The sexes are similar in appearance. The species is dichromatic, however, …. Thus, these tanagers visually can distinguish between males and females, but humans are unable to see these differences.”

We enjoyed seeing the Amazon Lava Lizards that were often around the lodge.

And, what bird feeder would be complete without a squirrel? Although they were much more shy and less of a nuisance than our gray squirrels at home. This one is an appropriately named Brazilian Squirrel.

Below, Derek enjoying the feeders during our last hours at Itororó.

Andy Foster of Serra dos Tucanos Birding Tours did a wonderful job making all the arrangements for the week including transportation and our stays at REGUA and Eco Lodge Itororó. We could not have asked for a better guide than Cirilo. Bettina fed us well and treated us like family at Itororó. I would love to go back any time!

Our eBird trip report Brazil – Atlantic Rain Forest (REGUA & Ecolodge Itororo) August 2024 has all of our checklists and photos. Also see Shelley’s iNaturalist observations for the trip and Derek’s iNat observations.

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Brazil 2024 Part 3a – REGUA

Posted in South America, tagged Black Jacobin, Blond-crested Woodpecker, Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Brazil, Brazilian Tapir, Common Marmoset, Gray-headed Tody-Flycatcher, Maroon-bellied Parakeet, Masked Water-Tyrant, Moths, Pycnopalpa bicordata, REGUA, Reserva Ecológica de Guapiaçu, Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, White-headed Marsh Tyrant on January 12, 2025| 1 Comment »

Derek and I met at Rio de Janeiro–Galeão International Airport on the afternoon of August 23 and two hours later our driver delivered us to Reserva Ecológica de Guapiaçu, commonly known as REGUA. After the manager had shown us to our rooms, we were warmly greeted by a woman who didn’t tell us her position. We quickly learned that she was another guest. The lodge looks like it could have been an old house with a lot of bedrooms and a large kitchen, dining room, and family room. The atmosphere at REGUA is more like a gathering of friends and family than a typical tourist lodge. Current guests welcome newcomers into the fold. During our short stay, guests included a couple who were “just” birders, a well-known ecologist and an award-winning science journalist. When away from the lodge, we were frequently asked by locals if we were scientists.

It was dark after we finished dinner, so instead of birding, we spent the evening at the moth wall, simply a 8-foot high and 6-8 foot wide wall in the yard, painted white with lights to attract moths. Even though it was winter, we saw amazing moths. A sample is below; click on any image in the gallery for a larger view.

The next morning, Derek took advantage of birding with the local guide. I was lazy and opted to walk around the wetland with some of the others who were staying at REGUA. Derek saw more birds than I did, but I enjoyed the introduction to the lake and wetland which are the heart of REGUA. This beautiful Rufescent Tiger-Heron was an easy-to-see bird and a highlight of the morning.

I went back to the lodge and spent some time watching the hummingbird feeders where I was rewarded with my first life bird on this part of the trip, a Black Jacobin.

Derek returned in time for a late afternoon walk around the wetland. Many of the birds were familiar to us, but we also saw a Whistling Heron, a life bird for both of us. I also enjoyed this cute little Gray-headed Tody-Flycatcher.

The day went quickly and soon we were back at the moth wall. More fascinating moths included those below.

Our most surprising experience at REGUA occurred that evening. I was alone at the moth wall while Derek was in his room reviewing photos. Suddenly, I heard a noise behind me, turned, and saw a tapir about six feet away! I jumped in surprise and he ambled into the woods. I rushed inside to get Derek, not really expecting a return visit from the tapir, but I had to get Derek out there. We were standing by the wall quietly talking when Derek said, “Shelley, look over your shoulder.” And, there he was!

Reserva Ecológica de Guapiaçu is a non-profit organization with a mission of conserving and protecting the local Atlantic Forest. REGUA’s species reintroduction project works to rebalance and restore a healthy ecosystem. One of the species in that program is the Brazilian or lowland tapir, Tapirus terrestris, a large mammal that weighs an average of 500 pounds. The following day, we learned that our tapir’s name is Valente and that he was one of the animals reintroduced into the area. Valente has adapted quite well and he has fathered most of the next generation of tapirs in the area.

On our last full day at REGUA, I thought that we should go to the wetlands as early as possible, but it turned out that wasn’t such a great idea. The local birding guide showed up an hour after we left and went with the other birders to the wetlands. They saw twice as many species as we did even though Derek is a good birder with sharp eyes. Experienced local guides who know bird songs and calls are invaluable in environments with skulky birds in thick vegetation.

Regardless, we enjoyed our walk and the birds that we saw. Two of our favorites were White-headed Marsh Tyrant and Masked Water-Tyrant.

Butterflies were not nearly as common as moths, but we did see a few on our walks around the wetlands. Below, a Pythonides jovianus, sometimes called Variable Blue-Skipper.

Back at the lodge, we continued to appreciate beauties like this Swallow-tailed Hummingbird.

On our third and last night at the moth wall, we continued to see new species. During our nights there we also saw a few other insects. One of the most interesting was this large leaf katydid, Pycnopalpa bicordata.

We had one more morning at REGUA, but it rained so we spent most of our time on the lovely open porch just outside the dining room. The rain didn’t deter the birds and other animals, so we just sat and enjoyed the show.

We appreciated good looks at a Blond-crested Woodpecker, one of my life birds at REGUA.

The banana feeders were popular, even in light rain. The Maroon-bellied Parakeets were always fun to watch.

Common Marmosets enjoyed the bananas as much as the birds.

I’ll end with my favorite bird from REGUA, the elegant little Blue-naped Chlorophonia. I could look at these beautiful birds all day and never tire of them.

Just after lunch, our driver would pick us up and take us to Eco Lodge Itororó. Most birders who stay at Itororó do a day trip to REGUA, but I’m very grateful for our three days there. Without an overnight visit, we would have missed the moths and tapir encounter as well as the camaraderie with other guests, the delicious home-cooked meals, and the wonderful warm atmosphere.

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Brazil 2024 Part 2b – Jaguars!

Posted in South America, tagged Black Witch, Boat-billed Heron, Brazil, Crane Hawk, Giant Otter, Guira Cuckoo, Jabiru, Jaguar, Lifebird Tours, Ocelot, Pantanal, Pied Plover, Pousada Piuval, Savannah Hawk, South Wild Pantanal Lodge, Transpantaneira Highway, Turquoise-fronted Amazon on December 25, 2024| Leave a Comment »

August 18 would be a big day, so we were up early for one last spin around the wonderful Pousada Piuval property. The sunrise promised a great day ahead.

I had missed Guira Cuckoo when others in our group had seen them on the previous two days, so I was thrilled that we had wonderful looks at these bizarre-looking birds before we left Pousada Piuval. Guira Cuckoos are not only odd-looking birds, their nesting behavior is also unusual with multiple females in a social group all laying eggs in the same nest. They feed mainly on insects including flying termites and perch atop termite mounds to survey their surroundings when hunting.

Termite mounds are a conspicuous feature of the Pantanal savanna. They perform ecologically important functions such as improving soil health and providing food and nesting habitat for wildlife. One study reported that termites are a food source for 179 bird species and the mounds were mentioned as nest sites for 45 species of birds in Brazil. We saw termite mounds in many of the dry open areas like that below.

Savannah Hawks were frequently seen on this trip. It was a much-wanted bird that did not disappoint.

Turquoise-fronted Amazon (photo below) was one of the fourteen species of parrots and parakeets that we saw.

Pink trumpet trees were scattered over the open landscape. My photos are not good enough to identify the trees to species, but I believe that they are either Handroanthus heptaphyllus or Handroanthus impetiginosus. I do know that they were gorgeous! I hated to leave this beautiful place, but we had important things to see in other places.

We drove the entire Transpantaneira highway south to Porto Jofre with several stops for birding along the way. We arrived mid-afternoon at the houseboat that would be home for the next three nights and headed out right away in a small boat to look for jaguars.

Before long, we found the beautiful Ti, a 9-year-old female, resting on the riverbank. Jaguars in the Porto Jofre area have been studied extensively and Alyson recognized all of them. The Jaguar Field Guide has a profile for each of the individuals observed most often. Jaguar spot patterns are unique like human fingerprints.

We also saw birds on the river. I loved the adorable little Pied Plovers.

Days on the river ended with spectacular sunsets.

The air on the river was a little smoky from the distant fires and the drive down the Transpantaneira had been dusty. As a result, I was coughing and feeling tired, so I decided to take the next day off and stay on the houseboat. I had not been expecting the fires. My vision of the Pantanal had been shaped mostly by John Grisham’s “The Testament” in which there was water everywhere. In hindsight, I suppose that a 25-year-old novel isn’t the best source of information. But, the Pantanal was wetter 25 years ago. Severe droughts in recent years along with deforestation and climate change have had a huge impact on the area. A few days later, The NY Times published a major article about the deadly toll on the wildlife of Brazil’s Pantanal from the fires, the worst on record since 1998. In 2024 alone, over 7,000 square miles of the Pantanal have burned.

I joined the group again on August 20 to cruise the river in our small boat. It was a great way to see birds like this Crane Hawk, a species that had been high on my wish list.

We also saw quite a few Jabirus along the riverbanks. In the photo below, note that the “small” black bird is a Black Vulture. These prehistoric-looking birds are nearly five feet tall and have an eight-foot wingspan.

Another bizarre bird of the Pantanal is the unique Boat-billed Heron.

Giant Otters are an endangered species with a current population of only 1,000 to 5,000 individuals in the wild. I was fascinated when we watched an otter aggressively chase off a caiman who tried to steal the fish that the otters were eating. The Giant Otter Project has interesting info on the otters.

We also saw several jaguars again that day including a very unhappy Patricia. That evening we heard her story. A large male jaguar tried to steal a caiman that Patricia had just caught. She successfully defended her much-needed food, but during the fight, her young cub disappeared. Speculation was that the male had killed the cub. We were all distraught and tears were shed that night for Patricia and her cub. The next day, we heard an update to the story. A tourist had taken a photo of Patricia with her cub that morning! Amazingly, the little cub had swum across the big river by himself to flee from the fight between his mother and the big male jaguar. Somehow Patricia had managed to find her baby. Is there anything more tenacious than a fierce mama jaguar?

Our three days on the river had been all we hoped for. After one last breakfast on the houseboat, we drove back north on the Transpantaneira highway towards South Wild Pantanal Lodge, where we would spend the last two days of our trip.

Many of the birds were the same species that we had seen earlier at Pousada Piuval, but some were new. In addition to the birds, I loved the other wildlife in the Pantanal including some of the smaller creatures. I was especially excited to see a Black Witch moth in the dining room at South Wild.

This little frog was in our bathroom. A sign explained that these are “toilet frogs” and they live there. It suggested calling a staff member to move a frog if you didn’t want to share your bathroom, but please don’t hurt them.

Jabirus were quite common; according to our eBird trip report, we saw 38 different individuals. This family built a nest atop a high tree right by the lodge.

The star of South Wild Pantanal is another big cat, an Ocelot, which is seen so reliably that South Wild “guarantees” a sighting. As you might expect, this is the result of feeding the Ocelot. However, no other lodge has been able to accomplish this feat. It was magical to watch this gorgeous creature leisurely come for food, go to the edge of the woods to patiently wait for more, and then come back to eat again, repeated three times.

Our Lifebird Tours trip ended the following morning. We got up early to drive north on the Transpantaneira and then to Cuiabá where we went in separate directions. Sherry flew to the Amazon for a week there, the others flew back to Sao Paulo for flights home, and I flew to Rio de Janeiro where my friend, Derek, would meet me for another week in the Atlantic Rain Forest. Sherry organized a great trip and Alyson Melo brilliantly guided us on this wonderful adventure.

For a complete list of all bird species observed and photographed, see the eBird trip report. For photos of other wildlife that I photographed on this part of my trip to Brazil, see my iNaturalist observations.

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Brazil 2024 Part 2a – Intro to the Pantanal

Posted in South America, tagged Argentine Black-and-white Tegu, Bare-faced Curassow, Black-banded Owl, Black-collared Hawk, Brazil, Brazilian Tapir, Campo Flicker, Capped Heron, Capybara, Gray Monjita, Greater Rhea, Hyacinth Macaw, Lifebird Tours, Orange-backed Troupial, Pantanal, Pousada Piuval, Red-legged Seriema, Toco Toucan, Transpantaneira, White-throated Piping-Guan, Yellow-billed Cardinal, Yellow-rumped Cacique on December 16, 2024| Leave a Comment »

I can’t remember when the Pantanal of Brazil first came to my attention, but I’ve wanted to visit since I first heard about it. I think it sounded a bit romantic with jaguars and exotic birds. The reality was that and more with fascinating wildlife in a beautiful remote landscape.

Sherry’s Lifebird Tours group landed in Cuiabá mid-morning on August 16. We drove straight to our first lodge, Pousada Piuval, near the little town of Poconé at the northern end of the Pantanal. We started birding right away and the group saw 34 species of birds before we even ate lunch. A Cattle Tyrant foraged right at our feet as we entered the lodge and Yellow-billed Cardinals were abundant on the lodge grounds.

A little pond attracted capybaras, herons and egrets.

We explored the lodge property on our first outing later that afternoon. I had been looking forward to seeing Greater Rhea, the largest bird in South America (up to 65 pounds and 5 feet tall). These odd flightless birds employ an unusual breeding strategy. The male alone builds a nest and mates with several females who all lay their eggs in his nest. The male does all the incubation and then cares for the chicks for four to six months.

Another of my new favorite birds was Gray Monjita, a large attractive flycatcher.

Piping-Guans were big, odd-looking birds. We saw two species, White-throated Piping-Guan and Red-throated Piping-Guan. These birds confused me a bit. White-throated Piping-Guans can have either white or light blue skin on their necks. According to eBird, some individuals in the Pantanal have both blue and red and are most likely hybrids with Red-throated. However, I can’t find any photos in eBird of individuals identified as hybrids and I can find photos of both species with red and blue on their necks. After spending way too much time puzzling over this, I give up and I’m just going to enjoy the diversity of nature.

Our guide, Alyson Melo, is an expert on the Pantanal and he knows how to find birds and other wildlife. Just before 4:00 PM, he took us to a little pond where we spent about 20 minutes watching as birds came in for a drink. First was a Sunbittern followed by the beautiful Black-collared Hawk in the photo below. Other birds included a few Undulated Tinamous and Choco Chachalacas. An Azara’s Agouti came for a drink.

We drove around and saw a Black-fronted Nunbird and a Spot-backed Puffbird. Around 5:00 PM, we returned to the little pond for about half an hour. Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Gray-cowled Wood-Rail, Bare-faced Curassow, and a Black-tailed Marmoset showed this time.

I thought that the female curassows were prettier than the males. In the photo below, the black male is in front of two females with their barred black-and-white uppersides and buffy bellies.

It was an incredible start to our time in the Pantanal. We had not even been there a full day and we had seen many fascinating birds and other animals.

On Saturday morning, August 17, we headed down the famous Transpantaneira, a 91-mile dirt road, which runs from Poconé to Porto Jofre. The mosaic of dry areas, marshes, and shallow pools alongside the road contribute to unparalleled wildlife viewing. In the hour and 20 minutes before we turned back for breakfast, we saw 48 species of birds.

A group favorite was this lovely Capped Heron.

After breakfast, we spent the rest of the day birding the vast property of Pousada Piuval. Its diverse habitats include patches of forest, open dry areas, and watering holes where over 500 species of birds have been observed.

A delightful surprise was this Red-legged Seriema that hopped right up onto our vehicle. Note the second bird on the ground and listen as they call to each other.

The Pantanal has many interesting creatures in addition to birds. We saw quite a few other animals including several Argentine Black-and-white Tegus. These huge lizards can grow to be over four feet long. They don’t look very friendly to me, so I was surprised to learn they are sometimes kept as pets. According to Wikipedia, “They are notable for their unusually high intelligence and can also be housebroken.” These lizards have escaped or been released into the wild in the Southeast US where they are considered to be an invasive species and threaten native wildlife.

We saw many birds that day and had another magical experience late in the afternoon as we sat watching a little watering hole for an hour. Alyson told us that other birders usually quickly check the pond and leave. He knew it was worth staying for a while and our patience was rewarded.

Who doesn’t love toucans? This big Toco Toucan was not only colorful, it seemed to have personality.

Next was the star of Pousada Piuval, Hyacinth Macaw, the world’s largest flying parrot. Its status was endangered for several years; in 2014 it was downlisted to vulnerable. That is still not a lot of birds; population estimates range from 3,000 to 7,000 individuals. The population decline in recent decades is mainly due to habitat loss and trapping for the pet trade. The sale of these spectacular parrots is no longer legal but previously fetched $10-15,000 for a single bird in the US.

Yellow-rumped Cacique was another sharp-looking bird at the little pond.

A little before 5:00 PM, we got really excited and quietly held our breath as a tapir came out of the woods. It took him a while to go for his first drink at the watering hole, but he stayed in our view for quite some time. We were thrilled with close views as several times he walked towards the woods and then came back for another drink.