Birding for Life

Argentina 2025 – Córdoba

August 23, 2026 by Shelley Rutkin

Sandra and I had a wonderful plan for the next phase of our South America adventure. We would fly from Montevideo to Posadas, a small city in the northeast corner of Argentina and the northern gateway to Iberá National Park. We would rent a car and drive south to Carlos Pellegrini, spend two nights there, and Sandra would get her lifer Strange-tailed Tyrant.

After our last day of birding in Uruguay on December 6, we checked our emails so we could check into our flights the following day. The screenshot below is from the message sent by Aerolineas Argentinas.

Confused? So were we. AEP and EZE are the two Buenos Aires airports, about an hour apart. Our flights had been changed. Now our flight from Montevideo was scheduled to arrive at AEP at 2:30 PM, and the flight to Posadas would leave from EZE at 1:50 PM. We spent some time trying to resolve these impossible flights before giving up and going to bed. The next morning, we couldn’t find a way to get to Posadas, so we extended our stay at our hotel another night and spent the day exploring other options. We had several days to fill before we were scheduled to fly to Santiago on December 11 for the last leg of our trip.

We pored over maps of South America and settled on Córdoba, Argentina. Sandra reached out to two people for help: the guide she had used several weeks earlier in Argentina, and the local guide on the Rockjumper Argentina trip she had finished just before my arrival. Between the two of them, we soon had a plan—and a guide of our own, Martin Toledo.

On Monday, December 8, we flew to Córdoba, where Martin met us. He told us his phone had been “blowing up” the previous day as both of Sandra’s contacts reached out to him about us. Martin wasted no time, and we were birding by 4:00 PM. He quickly found the Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper shown below, a new bird for me.

Chiguanco Thrush was another addition to my life list.

Two hummingbirds soon followed, Red-tailed Comet and Glittering-bellied Emerald, both new species for me. The comet was fast, making it difficult to photograph, but what a gorgeous bird, sparkling like a red and green Christmas ornament. We saw both male and female Glittering-bellied Emeralds, the male showing his glittering green belly, and the lovely female in the photo below.

The next morning started with a Chaco Earthcreeper, another bird with a fun name that I’d first seen just a week earlier in Entre Ríos.

Pale-breasted Spinetail had also been a lifer that same day in Entre Ríos, and I was happy to see this pretty bird again.

Next it was time for some cuckoo excitement. Laura had tried really hard to find an Ash-colored Cuckoo for us in Entre Ríos, without luck. This morning with Martin, we finally got a great look at one (photo on the left below), a lifer for both Sandra and me. Then two more cuckoos flew into the same tree! These two were Dark-billed Cuckoos, and they showed some cuckoo love right in front of us. In the photo on the right, I almost caught the action.

We’d started the day early to avoid the heat, and by 8:15 AM, we had arrived at Salinas Grandes, a vast salt flat stretching across several provinces of north-central Argentina. In Córdoba, the salt flats are bordered by sparse saline scrub and dry Chaco woodland.

We had come here seeking Salinas Monjita, a species whose range is restricted to the salt flats of the central Argentine lowlands. The monjita thrives in this barren-looking habitat. Happily, we found our target (in the photo below). Other species that inhabit this landscape include the more widespread Lesser Shrike-Tyrant and Patagonian Mockingbird, both of which we also saw.

Later that afternoon, I loved seeing this White Woodpecker. It was also fun to see a Blue-crowned Parakeet, and with that sighting, I lost my only realistic chance of getting a life bird in my home county. These parakeets are native to South America, but like many parrots and parakeets, they have become established in Florida.

At 7:20 PM, my last lifer of the day was this stunning Ultramarine Grosbeak.

We started our second full day in Córdoba with an iconic bird of South America, Black-legged Seriema. It belongs to a small family; Red-legged Seriema is the only other living member.

Seriemas are evolutionarily unique—the closest living relatives are falcons, parrots, and passerines. They are striking, prehistoric-looking birds with memorable vocalizations. I didn’t get a recording of the Black-legged Seriema, but here is a video of the similar-sounding Red-legged Seriema that I made the prior year in the Pantanal.

Black-bodied Woodpecker, a highly sought-after species, was our next target. The search was especially fun because we ran into a local birder that Martin knew from an online birding group, and this was their first time meeting in person. He’d seen the woodpecker earlier that morning and was excited to offer suggestions for where to look. We found the woodpecker, which reminded me of our Pileated Woodpecker in North America, although it is significantly smaller, about the same size as a Northern Flicker.

Here are the four of us, from left to right: Martin, his new friend, Sandra, and me.

From there we headed toward the higher elevation of Quebrada del Condorito National Park in search of a local endemic, Cordoba Cinclodes. I was pleased to see the bird, and I was lucky to get the photo below, which shows the striking wing pattern—the bases of the flight feathers form a broad, black-edged rufous band, the largest and brightest wing band of any Cinclodes.

We were also fortunate to see Olrog’s and White-winged Cinclodes, as well as Long-tailed Meadowlark (pictured below).

The habitat at Quebrada del Condorito was completely different from everywhere else we’d birded in Córdoba. It was beautiful and peaceful, with very few cars or people that afternoon.

We ended the day with a bird that is special to Martin, Olive-crowned Crescentchest. Martin did his master’s research on this species, and we loved seeing it, a lifer for both Sandra and me, even though it was a bit too shy to get a good photo. At the same location, I was also thrilled to see this Andean Tinamou. Somehow I’d gotten the impression that it was a difficult bird to see, but now I think most birders who visit the area likely do see it. Either way, it was a lovely end to a great day.

On December 11, our last day with Martin, I picked up three more life birds: a coot, a grebe, and a duck, but my favorite sighting was this Whistling Heron. Martin told us locals call it the “rainbow bird.” I had seen these colorful herons before, but never so well.

Our last stop was at 3:00 PM on the way to the airport. We had just 20 minutes to try to find Dinelli’s Doradito, a potential lifer that Sandra wanted very much. It would have been a life bird for me, too, if I’d seen it. Just before our time was up, Martin called out that he had it, and I went running down the hard-packed dirt road toward him. There was a dip in the road that I knew was there, but my attention was elsewhere, and down I went. My first concern was my camera, which was fine, thankfully. Next, my attention went to my ankle, which had twisted in the fall. I hobbled back to the car.

Sandra got her doradito, and I got points with Martin, who thought I was a very nice person for being happy for my friend despite my fall. We all assumed that my ankle was sprained and we headed to the airport, where Martin did everything he could to take care of us—handling our luggage, buying anti-inflammatories, and getting a wheelchair for me. And then we were off to Santiago!

Beyond the birds, Córdoba is home to an incredibly rich and diverse ecosystem. A few highlights below: Argentine Anole, Nutria, Dwarf Cupflower, Argentine Toad, Toothpick Cactus, and Mexican Silverspot.

Sandra and I were very glad we made the last-minute decision to spend a few days birding in Córdoba. Martin was a wonderful guide—a great birder, kind, fun—and in only three days, he found all the expected endemic birds of the area for us. It was an exciting adventure in a beautiful part of the world, bookended by two mishaps, our impossible flights and my “sprained” ankle. I’ll never forget it.

Posted in South America | Tagged Andean Tinamou, Argentina, Argentine Anole, Argentine Toad, Ash-colored Cuckoo, Black-bodied Woodpecker, Black-legged Seriema, Blue-crowned Parakeet, Córdoba, Chaco Earthcreeper, Chiguanco Thrush, Cordoba Cinclodes, Dark-billed Cuckoo, Dwarf Cupflower, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Long-tailed Meadowlark, Mexican Silverspot, Nutria, Pale-breasted Spinetail, Red-legged Seriema, Red-tailed Comet, Salinas Monjita, Toothpick Cactus, Ultramarine Grosbeak, Whistling Heron, White Woodpecker | Leave a Comment »

Uruguay 2025

July 19, 2026 by Shelley Rutkin

Uruguay was my contribution to the scope creep that turned my trip with Sandra last fall into more than a month in South America. “Look at the map! We’ll be in Buenos Aires, and Montevideo is right across the river. I’ve wanted to go to Uruguay since I was in high school.” Sandra quickly found Florencia Ocampo, founder of Birding With Me and co-author of the new field guide Birds of Uruguay, and just like that, Florencia had arranged a short tour for us.

We flew to Montevideo on December 4, checked into the lovely Cala di Volpe Boutique Hotel, and headed out for a little afternoon birding. I picked up two life birds right away—Great Grebe and Kelp Gull. I got better looks at both species later in Chile, where I took the photos below of the grebe with its “teenage” offspring and the big dark-winged Kelp Gull, but it was a great start.

Early the next morning, our guide for the next two days, Mauricio Silvera, picked us up. On our way out of the city, we stopped for his colleague, Pilar Camejo, who arrived at the car with an amazing homemade breakfast.

Mauricio wasted no time finding birds. Black-necked Swan, Chilean Flamingo, and Long-winged Harrier were all lifers for me. Hellmayr’s Pipit and the striking Black-and-white Monjita in the photo below were lifers for both of us. The monjita, with its limited range, was our only sighting during our entire month in South America. Amazingly, Mauricio spotted this bird as we were driving on a major highway.

In addition to the birds, I soon had another exciting wildlife sighting—the Urutu Lancehead below.

Later that afternoon, we made an unplanned visit to a little area near our hotel that turned into one of my favorite experiences of the day. What a treat to get such a clear look at the Rufous-capped Antshrike below—a small, perfect moment in a day full of good birds.

Same spot, another lifer—this pretty Gray-throated Warbling-Finch. Two new birds for my life list, and a wonderful end to our serious birding for the day.

Our bonus birds that evening were an adult and juvenile Southern Lapwing right in front of our hotel. I could have spent another hour photographing them, but it was time for dinner, and the others were not going to indulge me any longer. Lapwings are ubiquitous in South America; nine of our checklists over our two days in Uruguay included them. Still, babies are adorable and hard to walk away from!

Day two brought more life birds for both of us. We started with Curve-billed Reedhaunter, known as skulking and reclusive, so I was thrilled to photograph two different individuals. One appeared to be an immature bird, due to the light-colored bill. It was noticeably more confiding as well, typical of young birds, making it easier to photograph.

In that same reedbed habitat, we tracked down a Warbling Doradito—smaller and, reputedly, harder to see than the reedhaunter. I was thrilled to see this pretty bird, too, a very satisfying sighting of another bird with a fun name.

Cinereous Harrier (on the left below) was another lifer for me in this productive birding area. I was able to compare it to Long-winged Harrier (on the right) at the same spot for a nice side-by-side study.

One of Sandra’s favorites was Glaucous-blue Grosbeak. It is in the cardinal family, like the North American Blue Grosbeak, but it’s a little smaller and generally more shy. We were fortunate when this beautiful bird perched in the open and allowed us such a clear view.

Other great birds that day included the Rusty-collared Seedeater, Grassland Yellow-Finch, and Chivi Vireo below. The Vireo photo isn’t great, but I was happy to get any look at all, especially as I’d missed it multiple times earlier in the trip. It is a widespread and common bird in South America, but like the Red-eyed Vireo at home, it’s easier to hear than to see.

The star of the day—perhaps the star of our Uruguay birding—was the gorgeous Saffron-cowled Blackbird. Mauricio was elated to estimate 150 birds in the flock of this rapidly declining species. Seeing such a large flock of these birds was a truly unforgettable spectacle, made all the more poignant by the vulnerability of the species.

My final life bird of the trip was the Snowy-crowned Tern that I’d really wanted. In the photo below, it’s the lighter bird with the black mask.

It was difficult to believe that we’d packed so much into just two days of birding. The group trip report contains 125 species. I gained 17 life birds, and Sandra, who has birded far more extensively than I have, including recently in nearby Argentina, added six lifers. Uruguay had started as an easy add-on to our South American itinerary, but it had quickly contributed some captivating highlights to our trip.

Posted in South America | Tagged Birding With Me, Black-and-white Monjita, Chivi Vireo, Cinereous Harrier, Curve-billed Reedhaunter, Glaucous-blue Grosbeak, Grassland Yellow-Finch, Gray-throated Warbling-Finch, Great Grebe, Kelp Gull, Long-winged Harrier, Rufous-capped Antshrike, Rusty-collared Seedeater, Saffron-cowled Blackbird, Snowy-crowned Tern, Southern Lapwing, Uruguay, Urutu Lancehead, Warbling Doradito | Leave a Comment »

Argentina 2025 – Buenos Aires & Entre Ríos

July 7, 2026 by Shelley Rutkin

Sandra and I arrived in Buenos Aires late on November 29 and went directly to our lodging, a lovely place that even had “luxury apartments” in its name. For the first time in over two weeks, we didn’t have to set our alarms. The next morning, we ventured out and got an impression of the city: pleasant, clean, and modern. Our first bird was this friendly Rock Pigeon, who seemed determined to join us for breakfast.

Our plan was to bird Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur on our own, but the park was closed, apparently due to expected rain. We birded the edge of the park from outside the fence before the rain became too heavy. We had only a dozen species on our list, but two of those were life birds for me: Rosy-billed Pochard and Chimichanga Caracara. Oops! That’s actually Chimango Caracara, but once I’d dubbed it “Chimichanga Caracara”, it remained that for the rest of the trip. I also got my best ever look at a Picazuro Pigeon. In other places they had been a bit shy, but here they were nearly as tame as the Rock Pigeons.

We enjoyed a lazy afternoon and got some much-needed rest before our guide, Laura Dodyk, and driver, Dani Alvarez, picked us up early the next morning. We headed to Ceibas, a legendary birding destination just two hours north of Buenos Aires. Birders love Ceibas for packing wetlands, grasslands, thorn scrub, and woodlands into one small area—a rare combination that makes it possible to see a high number of species in a short time.

The day got off to a great start with my lifer Freckle-breasted Thornbird and Black-capped Warbling Finch at our first stop. Five more life birds quickly followed at Predio del Hotel Ceibas, our home for the next two nights.

Who doesn’t love woodpeckers? I do! And, this adorable Checkered Woodpecker became one of my all-time favorites. He may not be the biggest or flashiest woodpecker, but he more than makes up for it in cuteness and personality.

Another lifer at the hotel was this White-naped Xenopsaris, a bird that Laura said is usually challenging to see.

The birding was quite easy as we drove miles of rural dirt roads, where we could stop and walk along the road, never far from our car. We continued to rack up the lifers until I had 22 new birds on our first day with Laura and Dani. See more of my favorites from this day in the gallery below. Click on any image for a larger view and caption.

The expansive wetlands near Ceibas provide habitat for many species of waterfowl, and we were able to bird these areas right from the road. In the photos below, some of my lifers: Ringed Teal, Coscoroba Swan, and a Rosy-billed Pochard pair. Rosy-billed Pochard had actually been a life bird the previous day at Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, but I hadn’t been able to photograph it before the rain began.

The Ceibas area also has arid habitats, like low, thorny acacia scrublands where species such as this Lark-like Brushrunner thrive. I liked this bird so much that it gets its own gallery.

I also liked seeing Monk Parakeets in their native range, which encompasses northern Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, and the southern parts of Bolivia and Brazil. They have become established in many parts of the world, including a sizable population right where I live in Florida, mostly due to escapees and releases from the pet trade. Monk Parakeets are unusual among parrots because they’re one of only two species that build nests rather than nesting in tree cavities. The resulting nests are big, bulky masses of sticks—often large communal structures, with each pair having its own “apartment.”

This little Brazilian Guinea Pig was another fun sighting. I’m as happy to see new mammals and other wildlife as I am to see new birds.

Our second day with Laura and Dani was fun, too, and I was thrilled to get life birds like the Dark-throated Seedeater, Spotted Nothura, and Golden-billed Saltator in the following gallery. Nothura is a genus of small tinamou, and this was my first sighting of one—and still my only Nothura.

I’ve seen quite a few Burrowing Owls, but I never get tired of them. Firewood Gatherer was not a life bird either, but it was also nice to see. Perhaps I’m just fascinated with its name. And Grassland Sparrow has become one of my favorites. Like many birders, I have a soft spot for the Ammodramus sparrows, the genus that includes the familiar Grasshopper Sparrow of North America.

We didn’t have as much time on our third and final day with Laura, but I got a few life birds, with my favorite being the stunning Scarlet-headed Blackbird.

For the obligatory hummingbird in any post about birding in the Americas, I present this Gilded Hummingbird, soon to be known to eBirders as Gilded Sapphire when Cornell adopts the new AviList taxonomy.

Sadly, I didn’t get any photos of Laura or Dani or any landscape shots because we never stopped birding. It was a great introduction to Argentina, and I was thrilled to get 39 life birds in just a few short days. I frequently end posts by saying that I want to visit a country again. Well, this time it came quickly, but not exactly as Sandra and I had planned. Stay tuned as I share more adventures from our month in South America.

Posted in South America | Tagged Argentina, Brazilian Guinea Pig, Brown-and-yellow Marshbird, Buenos Aires, Burrowing Owl, Ceibas, Checkered Woodpecker, Coscoroba Swan, Dark-throated Seedeater, Entre Ríos, Firewood Gatherer, Giant Wood Rail, Gilded Hummingbird, Gilded Sapphire, Golden-billed Saltator, Grassland Sparrow, Lark-like Brushrunner, Monk Parakeet, Picazuro Pigeon, Red-crested Cardinal, Ringed Teal, Rock Pigeon, Rosy-billed Pochard, Scarlet-headed Blackbird, Spectacled Tyrant, Spotted Nothura, White-tipped Plantcutter | Leave a Comment »

Brazil 2025 – Transition Zone and Heart of the Cerrado (Part 3 of 3)

June 18, 2026 by Shelley Rutkin

At Santuário do Caraça in 1982, Father Tobias, a resident priest, discovered that a Maned Wolf was responsible for nightly raids on the monastery’s garbage cans. To discourage the animal from scavenging, food was placed in a designated area. More than forty years later, the tradition continues. The sanctuary is relatively isolated, surrounded by a large protected reserve, and visitors can stay in the monastery’s guesthouse for a chance to see one of South America’s most iconic mammals.

The wolves are closely monitored by researchers, and many of the animals visiting the monastery wear GPS radio collars. The monitoring program tracks their movements, health, and behavior. Studies have shown that the wolves continue to range widely, hunt naturally, and maintain normal wild behavior despite their nightly visits.

I was excited when I saw Santuário do Caraça on our itinerary because seeing a Maned Wolf was one of the experiences I most wanted in Brazil, second only to seeing birds.

Santuário do Caraça lies in a transition zone where Atlantic Forest, Cerrado savanna, and Campos Rupestres (rocky fields) overlap, creating an exceptionally diverse mix of habitats. This convergence of ecosystems supports a remarkable variety of plants and animals. More than 400 bird species have been reported, making Caraça one of the premier birding destinations in southeastern Brazil.

The wolves are wild animals and do not visit the sanctuary every night. None appeared on our first night, November 24. The following day, we enjoyed excellent birding on the trails around the sanctuary. This Hyacinth Visorbearer, a life bird for both Sandra and me, was a highlight.

Sandra was also thrilled to get her lifer Gilt-edged Tanager here, a stunning species that I had been fortunate to see in 2024 at Ecolodge Itororó.

A Hangnest Tody-Tyrant, a tiny flycatcher endemic to Brazil, was another lifer for me. I initially thought the name was odd, but it’s actually quite descriptive. These birds build hanging nests suspended from horizontal branches above streams.

Late that afternoon, Sandra and I were in our room when she was looking out the window and excitedly called me over. There, in the grassy area near the parked cars, lay a Maned Wolf. We were surprised and thrilled. The photo below was taken a little later, after she got up and spent some time standing at the base of the steps leading up to the terrace, where a crowd of hopeful visitors waited and watched.

At 7:30 PM, food is set out for the wolves, and a sanctuary staff member gives a talk about the animals and the viewing rules: be still and quiet, no flash photography. A short time later, just after dark, the wolf cautiously made her way up the steps and nervously began eating. Even while feeding, she remained alert, frequently pausing to scan her surroundings. Although she may have been uneasy about the 15 to 20 people watching her, Maned Wolves are naturally wary. As solitary animals, they are constantly alert for predators and competitors.

The next morning, we were out early for our final bird walk at the sanctuary.

One of the highlights was Dubois’s Seedeater, another life bird for both Sandra and me.

However, one of our favorite birds was not a lifer, but this sweet Cliff Flycatcher that was nesting on a windowsill of the building where our rooms were located.

After a late breakfast, we left the sanctuary and headed towards Serra da Canastra. It was a long driving day, and by 2:00 PM, we still had not had lunch when we stopped for a potty break. We went into the little restaurant, and I asked Cirilo why we didn’t eat lunch there. He replied that he thought we would want something nicer. My response was that it was good enough, and look at that view. We filled out plates with what Cirilo described as “honest” food (not bad with a few basic choices) and sat by the table with the view. I hadn’t even realized until then that there were a couple of bird feeders set up. It wasn’t long until a Pileated Finch appeared, and I had another life bird. What started as an unplanned stop for a quick break turned into one of my favorite memories of the trip.

We also saw this female seedeater at the little restaurant, but we were unable to identify the species. Female seedeaters can be notoriously difficult to identify, and many look so similar that they cannot be identified with confidence.

We arrived at Serra da Canastra later that evening, where we would spend two full days birding, November 27-28, the final destination of our Brazil trip. Our primary target was Brazilian Merganser, one of the rarest and most threatened waterfowl species in the world. The total population is believed to be fewer than 250 individuals, and Serra da Canastra is one of the species’ strongholds and among the best places to search for it.

We spent much of our first day searching the rivers for Brazilian Merganser, but had no luck. Even so, we saw quite a few other birds, including those in the following gallery: Peach-fronted Parakeet, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Giant Cowbird, and Lined Seedeater.

Early the next day, we enjoyed wonderful views of Cock-tailed Tyrant, another major target at Serra da Canastra, and one of Sandra’s most wanted birds. Adult males possess a comical, oversized, and uniquely twisted tail that they hold perpendicular to their bodies. Their unusual tail and bouncy display flights have earned them the local nickname “Galito.” Sandra described these vulnerable little flycatchers as “a clown of a bird,” and it was easy to see why. However, my favorite nickname might be one bestowed by a non-birding friend after I shared a photo on Facebook. She declared that she loved my “Cocktail Tyrant.”

Another vulnerable tyrant flycatcher that I found especially appealing was the Sharp-tailed Tyrant.

We also saw the adorable White-eared Puffbird. Although Sandra and I had both seen the species before, it’s one of those birds that never loses its charm.

Other birds photographed on our second day included Black-throated Saltator and Curl-crested Jay.

Once again, we spent much of the day searching the rivers for Brazilian Merganser. Near the end of the afternoon, our local guide decided to return to a spot we had already visited earlier. It was a 17-mile drive each way on very rough roads. As we scanned the river, our guide suddenly became excited and announced that he had found a merganser. He was looking far upstream, and neither Sandra nor I could see it. I pointed my camera in that direction and clicked the shutter. Sandra did not see the bird at all, and I can count it only because I got the terrible photo below. After spending two days searching for one of the world’s rarest ducks, this was a huge disappointment for both of us.

Below, the lovely spot where we “saw” the Brazilian Merganser.

Although it was sad to end the trip on such a disappointing note, it had been an amazing adventure. Cirilo and Paulo took excellent care of us and were fun companions throughout the journey. Sandra and I both added many life birds–71 for Sandra and 92 for me. We had explored new parts of Brazil, met wonderful people, and created memories that will last a lifetime. Brazil is a country I’ve come to love and hope to visit again.

Posted in South America | Tagged Black-throated Saltator, Brazilian Merganser, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Cliff Flycatcher, Cock-tailed Tyrant, Curl-crested Jay, Dubois's Seedeater, Giant Cowbird, Hangnest Tody-Tyrant, Hyacinth Visorbearer, Lined Seedeater, Maned Wolf, Peach-fronted Parakeet, Pileated Finch, Santuário do Caraça, Serra da Canastra, Sharp-tailed Tyrant, White-eared Puffbird | Leave a Comment »

Brazil 2025 – Highlands and Savannah (Part 2 of 3)

June 2, 2026 by Shelley Rutkin

On November 20, we spent most of the day traveling northeast toward Campos do Jordão and the high-elevation Araucaria forests of the Serra da Mantiqueira. At 1,628 meters (5,341 feet) above sea level, Campos do Jordão is the highest city in Brazil. As we approached this region, the landscape changed noticeably.

The Araucaria Moist Forest stretches from lower plateaus around 500 meters to mountain slopes above 1,600 meters, supporting a remarkable number of endemic plants and birds, including the Araucaria Tit-Spinetail (which I saw, but unfortunately did not photograph). Towering Araucaria angustifolia, the Brazilian pine, dominates the forest. This critically endangered conifer’s lineage dates back roughly 200 million years to the age of dinosaurs.

We birded in forest areas outside the city for most of the next day. Bay-chested Warbling Finch, Velvety Black-Tyrant, White-crested Tyrannulet, Black Hawk-Eagle, Rufous-tailed Antbird, Red-legged Seriema, Great Pampa Finch (in photo below), and quite a few other species contributed to a nice morning.

Sandra’s goal is to see half of the world’s 11,131 birds, currently 5,566 species. But seeing 5,000 birds is also a significant accomplishment. We were doing well on this trip, and Sandra had been paying special attention that morning. When we arrived back at the hotel at lunchtime, her life list was at 4,999. As we watched the area with a small feeder, our guide, Douglas, suddenly spotted this Red-breasted Toucan — Sandra’s 5,000th bird!

We were all delighted to celebrate this milestone with Sandra. From front to back: Cirilo, Sandra, me, Douglas, and Paulo—smiles all around.

That afternoon, we birded a bit more and spotted a Laughing Falcon and a Crested Black Tyrant, shown in the photos below. Neither was a life bird for us, but can one ever see too many Laughing Falcons? And, the Crested Black Tyrant, always cute, was a fun sighting.

Later that day, we drove to Pouso Alegre where we spent the night. The next morning, after continuing on our way, we stopped to enjoy a small group of Campo Flickers on an ant mound, a species I first saw in the Pantanal on my 2024 trip to Brazil. I was pleased that several birds I associated with the Pantanal, including the flickers, turned up again on this trip.

This turned into an eventful day when our car broke down, and we were stranded on the side of the road. Paulo knew exactly what was wrong. He got a ride to a nearby gas station and returned with the necessary part and a mechanic. Meanwhile, Cirilo got a ride for the rest of us to the famous seedeater spot, our destination for the day, which was conveniently close by. The farmer who gave us a ride knew there would be other birders there, and we could ask for a ride back to the car after birding.

Birding at the seedeater spot was fun and, as promised, we saw seedeaters. In the photos below, Pearly-bellied Seedeater, Yellow-bellied Seedeater, and Tawny-bellied Seedeater.

There were more than seedeaters here, and we really enjoyed this spot. This photo is my favorite of a Yellow-chinned Spinetail that I’ve taken. You can see why “spinetail” is in the name.

I was also delighted by the flocks of Yellow-rumped Marshbirds.

The highlight here for Cirilo was a very unexpected Bobolink, a life bird for him. They winter in South America, but typically much farther west.

We shared all these birds with this very friendly group of birders. Francisco, one of the guys we met that day, even tracked me down via eBird and sent me an email with the following photo. As promised, we got a ride back to our car, which had been repaired and was ready to go. I couldn’t help but think that if the breakdown had happened at home in the US, there would have been a much longer and more expensive delay—and it wouldn’t have included life birds and new friends! We continued on our journey and arrived in Pompéu that night as planned.

We had a wonderful day on November 23 in Pompéu with our guide Afonso. Our first bird was a snazzy Blue Finch, which we saw well, but it was too quick for a good photo. I also liked the simple sweetness of a Chapada Flycatcher.

Another “good” bird that morning was a Black-masked Finch.

Maybe I should call this the “Seedeater Trip.” Yes, another new one—Plumbeous Seedeater.

I loved the landscape of scattered trees, shrubs, and open grasslands. We were now in the Cerrado, a vast tropical savanna in central Brazil known for its exceptional biodiversity and ranked among the world’s biologically richest savannas. The cerrado was the habitat I had most looked forward to birding in during our time in Brazil.

It’s easier to see birds here than in dense forest, and there are little surprises everywhere if you look closely. This photo was taken at our first stop of the morning, where we saw the above birds as well as Coal-crested Finch, Black-throated Saltator, Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch, and others.

A little later that morning, we watched a Southern Scrub-Flycatcher on her nest feeding young. Another highlight came at mid-day when Afonso found not one, but two, Least Nighthawks roosting on the ground. These gorgeous birds are so well camouflaged that I’m amazed he was able to find them.

We had also tried to find and see the notoriously secretive Ocellated Crake at a couple of spots, but our quest was unsuccessful that day. Afonso and his brother Luiz are famous among birders for their ability to track and “tame” these elusive birds, but even with their skills, birds are never guaranteed.

Fortunately, we had more time in Pompéu the following day and Afonso found the crake at our first stop. In the photo below, a beautiful Ocellated Crake, a highlight of the trip for me.

In addition to being a master crake finder, Afonso was one of the nicest people I’ve ever met, and I enjoyed our time with him. I will always remember his patience as he helped me navigate tall reeds and uneven ground while we made our way to a couple of spots where we looked for the crake. And when we saw special birds, he shared our happiness and seemed just as excited as we were. Here, Afonso is cleaning Sandra’s shoes after birding at a spot that was super muddy, leaving over an inch of extremely sticky stuff stuck to our shoes. This willingness to work so hard, the shared joy, and the kindness are what make birding so special.

Our morning was not yet over. At spots near the edge of town, we saw at least five Chestnut-capped Foliage-gleaners, including the adult and immature in the photo below. Other special birds seen that morning were Paint-billed Crake and Chotoy Spinetail, also displayed in the following gallery.

Our hearts full after an amazing morning of birding, we left for the long drive to Santuário do Caraça.

Posted in South America | Tagged Araucaria angustifolia, Araucaria Moist Forest, Black-masked Finch, Campo Flicker, Campos do Jordão, Cerrado, Chapada Flycatcher, Chestnut-capped Foliage-gleaners, Chotoy Spinetail, Crested Black Tyrant, Great Pampa Finch, Laughing Falcon, Least Nighthawk, Ocellated Crake, Paint-billed Crake, Pearly-bellied Seedeater, Plumbeous Seedeater, Pompéu, Pouso Alegre, Red-breasted Toucan, Tawny-bellied Seedeater, Yellow-bellied Seedeater, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Yellow-rumped Marshbird | Leave a Comment »

Brazil 2025 – The Atlantic Forest (Part 1 of 3)

May 27, 2026 by Shelley Rutkin

Scope creep and FOMO were responsible for my month-long trip to South America in late 2025. It started with Brazil. My friend Sandra and I had both visited before, and we both wanted to return. After carefully planning a trip for the second half of November, Sandra discovered a pelagic trip in Chile that she really wanted to do. There was just one problem: it didn’t depart until December 13, leaving a sizable gap to fill. Argentina was added to the itinerary and, once I realized how close Buenos Aires was to Montevideo, I wanted to include Uruguay, too. I’m a full partner in the scope creep, although Sandra owns the Fear Of Missing Out. Fortunately, I usually benefit from it as well.

Below, a beautiful Red-breasted Toucan awaited us in Brazil. You’ll have to wait until Part 2 to learn the significance of this particular bird.

Cirilo Vieira had previously guided both of us — separately — at Ecolodge Itororó, so choosing him to lead us again was easy. Andy Foster of Serra dos Tucanos Birding Tours handled the logistics, including arranging local guides at several key locations.

We planned to arrive a day early to rest and recover, but like many travel plans, things did not go as expected. My trip south turned into a nightmare of delays that included an unplanned overnight stay in Miami. After roughly two hours of sleep, we met Cirilo and Paulo, our driver, in Rio de Janeiro on November 14 to begin our drive south along the coast. I was functioning mostly on caffeine and adrenaline.

Our first target was Black-hooded Antwren, an extremely localized species found only along a narrow stretch of coastline between Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. Cirilo quickly found this prize and I even managed a photo.

We ended the day in Ubatuba and had time for a little birding before settling into our hotel. Even though I’d birded this area on my 2024 trip, Cirilo expertly found two special birds that evening — White-shouldered Fire-eye, a lifer for me, and Spot-backed Antshrike, a life bird for both of us.

Buff-throated Purpletuft is a rare little bird, less than four inches long, endemic to Brazil, and highly localized. It is widely considered difficult to see. On the morning of November 15, we arrived at the same spot we had birded the previous afternoon and the purpletuft was almost the first bird we saw. Sandra and I were thrilled to see this little jewel so well and to add it to our life lists.

After birding the rest of the morning at this productive spot, we made a quick stop at Sitio Folha Seca for hummingbirds. Then it was on to Sítio Macuquinho, which had been one of my favorite places on my earlier trip to Brazil. That visit had been just a few hours, but this time we would stay two nights.

Our full day at Sítio Macuquinho was magical. The very talented guide and owner, Elvis, found many wonderful birds for us. I was especially happy to see the São Paulo Marsh Antwren, a bird that the others had seen on my 2024 trip, but I just couldn’t get my binoculars on that quick little bird then. Click on the photos in the gallery below to see species names.

The most magical experience of the entire month-long trip occurred that evening. Sandra described it well: “a dusk show of several Long-trained Nightjars coursing back and forth over us while fireflies popped around us, all in the near-quiet of gentle insects chorusing nearby.” It was one of those rare moments of complete immersion; we stood there awestruck, spellbound by the spectacle unfolding around us.

After a couple of hours birding at Sítio Macuquinho again the next morning, we reluctantly said goodbye to our hosts and spent most of the day on November 17 driving to Intervales State Park. The park protects more than 40,000 hectares as part of the largest remaining mosaic of Atlantic Forest conservation areas, preserving one of the world’s most biodiverse and threatened ecosystems. In addition to its many trails and birding areas, Intervales also offers lodging and a restaurant within the park boundary.

We were aided by Gerson, our local guide at Intervales. His extensive knowledge of the park enabled him to show us some amazing birds; I added 24 species to my life list in just over two days there. A few of my favorites are shown in the gallery below.

Intervales gave us many happy moments. I was thrilled to feed my lifer Solitary Tinamou. My beloved Red-and-white Crakes scurried around in shallow water just a few feet from us. A Green-backed Trogon was so close to the lodge where we took refuge from the rain that I got a photo with my cell phone. We saw the highly sought-after, nomadic Pileated Parrot. I even got a look — and a blurry photo — of a Rufous-breasted Leaftosser as it stealthily dug in the leaf litter, a species that is notoriously secretive and often difficult to see.

Sandra’s favorite bird was this spectacular little Atlantic Royal Flycatcher, an endemic to southeastern Brazil, and a species that had been among her most-wanted birds for many years.

Watching this pretty bird in the sun-dappled branches over a narrow river was another perfect experience. Our little group was alone in the quiet forest and it felt as if the flycatcher had allowed us to enter his world.

Paulo discovered moths outside our rooms at the lodge and I enjoyed that bonus. Look at these beauties!

Some of you probably recognize the Imperial Moth. Yes, it’s the same species we have at home in the US. Here’s a range map from iNaturalist showing its wide distribution. Nature is amazing and I find that I learn something new on every trip.

As always, it was difficult to leave a place as wonderful as Intervales State Park. But on the morning of November 20, we left for our next destination, where more adventures awaited us.

Posted in South America | Tagged Atlantic Forest, Atlantic Royal Flycatcher, Black-hooded Antwren, Brazil 2025, Brown Tinamou, Buff-throated Purpletuft, Hooded Berryeater, Imperial Moth, Intervales State Park, Large Elaenia, Marsh Antwren, Orange-breasted Thornbird, Purple-crowned Plovercrest, Red-and-white Crake, Red-breasted Toucan, Rufous-capped Antthrush, Rufous-headed Tanager, Rufous-tailed Attila, Sítio Macuquinho, Spot-backed Antshrike, White-breasted Tapaculo, White-eyed Foliage-Gleaner, White-shouldered Fire-eye | 3 Comments »

Panama 2025 – From Canopy Camp to Nusagandi (Part 2 of 2)

October 29, 2025 by Shelley Rutkin

I was sick on our last full day at Canopy Camp, but I’ve traveled enough to know that these things happen, so I try to make the best of it. For the first couple of hours, I sat on our deck and watched birds in the nearby trees between trips to the bathroom. My reward was seeing a beautiful Cinnamon Woodpecker being fed by a parent. Immediately after I took this photo, the parent (top bird) reached down and deposited food into the open mouth of the baby.

If I hadn’t seen another bird all morning, I’d have been happy, but my day was just starting. I soon felt well enough to leave our deck, so I decided to check the vulture feeding area. Oscar had taken us to this spot on our first day at the camp. I didn’t realize until later that the others had seen an immature King Vulture in the trees that day, but it had not come down to feed. I took my time on my walk and enjoyed a little flock of Blue Dacnis (in the “wild” rather than at a feeder) as well as several new butterflies. At the feeding area, I didn’t see anything except this cute little Green-and-black Poison Dart Frog.

Again, I felt like my day was full and I was happy. While walking back to our tent, I saw a man pushing a wheelbarrow toward the vulture feeding area. Four Black Vultures also appeared to notice him and flew down in the same direction. I waited a while and then decided to go back and see what was happening. The man was standing off to the side. He had obviously delivered something as about 50 Black Vultures were excitedly feeding. After a long wait, he motioned to me and indicated that a King Vulture was in the trees. After another wait, it came down to feed. Finally, an immature King Vulture joined the frenzy. It was one of those “magic moments” in birding when I was completely captivated by these impressive, almost prehistoric-looking birds. The adult is the bird with the white back; the immature bird has a dark back and chest.

Later, after the others returned mid-afternoon, Sandra and I sat on our deck and enjoyed watching this pretty female White-tailed Trogon in the trees right outside our tent.

The week had gone quickly and we had been busy, but I had found time to check the moth sheet for a few minutes most early mornings and evenings.

Here is a small sample of interesting moths and other insects that I observed. If you like these, I have many more on iNaturalist (shelleydee – Panama September 2025)

The next morning, we said goodbye to Canopy Camp and started back north toward Panama City. Below, Sandra and me with Oscar, who was amazing and is now one of my favorite Canopy guides.

We stopped at Reserva San Francisco for one last birding venture. Lunch was at the same little restaurant we’d visited on our way to the camp. This time, a couple of Orange-chinned Parakeets entertained us. Who says you can’t see the orange chin?

We were soon back in the same hotel where we had started a week earlier, but our Panama adventure was not over yet. When Sandra had reviewed her potential life birds for our Panama itinerary, she was especially excited by the prospect of seeing Sapayoa, a bird in a monotypic family. That made Nusagandi—one of the few places where it’s found—a top priority.

We had made arrangements for a full day of birding with Michael Castro of Whitehawk Birding. Michael picked us up promptly at 5:00 AM, and we started the 2-hour drive to Nusagandi. We arrived at the province border just before 7:00 AM. A few minutes earlier, we had picked up a local farmer and birder who would help us for a few hours.

We would spend the entire day in the Guna Yala province, a thin strip of land that stretches along the Caribbean coast on the northeast side of Panama. Guna Yala is an autonomous Indigenous territory (comarca) in Panama, governed by the Guna people through their own traditional system. 95% of the inhabitants of the province are indigenous Gunas. The differences in this province are obvious as you approach the checkpoint on the only road into the area from Panama City. The road in does not open until 7:00 AM, and a fee is required to enter the province via car. Michael paid $30 USD per person for himself, Sandra, and me to enter. On the right, the line waiting to enter Guna Yala.

We stopped few minutes later, and I got my first life birds of the day—White-ruffed Manakin (pictured below) and Sulphur-rumped Tanager.

Our next stop at 8:00 AM was even more exciting. The area didn’t look all that promising to me; it was just a scrubby field with a few large trees. Michael is enthusiastic about all birds, and he got excited when he heard Crested Guans squawking. He followed the sounds to determine what was causing the racket, and then he got even more excited. I wish I could remember his exact words, but it was something like “A raptor is trying to kill one of the guans!” The raptor turned out to be an immature Ornate Hawk-Eagle, and it was amazing to watch this activity. Sadly for the hungry raptor, both guans survived the attacks. To help you fully appreciate this encounter, Crested Guans are not small birds—they weigh 4-1/2 pounds or more. An Ornate Hawk-Eagle weighs just over 2-1/2 pounds, so it seems to me that this ambitious young raptor had a lot of spunk.

Below, some of the beautiful landscape of the Guna Yala province.

The next excitement was finding a pair of Yellow-eared Toucanets on the side of the road. While many members of the toucan family are bold and easy to see, Yellow-eared Toucanets are shy and elusive. It was a real treat to watch these beautiful birds.

And, what did we see next? A male Blue Cotinga! This is another shy species, often perching high in the forest canopy. It’s thrilling when you spot a gorgeous male cotinga with his intense blue plumage.

It had been a great morning, but the main attraction still awaited us. We drove to our local farmer’s property near Nusagandi, parked on the side of the road, and ducked into the forest in a spot where I didn’t even see a path. We had started our quest for Sapayoa.

Sapayoa is an amazing bird, not for its looks, but for its unusual evolutionary history. From Google’s AI overview: “Sapayoa is the sole species in the monotypic family Sapayoidae, making it an evolutionary “enigma”. This Old World broadbill outlier, found in Panama and northwestern South America, is unique in the New World and is characterized by its broad bill, olive-yellow plumage, and preference for ravines and streams. Recent molecular evidence confirms its position as the last surviving member of a lineage that once inhabited the Old World tropics.”

We made our way through the forest alongside a little stream. The description of Sapayoa’s preferred habitat fit perfectly with the location where we found it—a quarter of a mile through thick forest by the stream. Our amazing guides helped Sandra and me slog through slippery mud as we carefully made our way down to the stream, all the while hearing thunder. Amazingly, we saw the Sapayoa and made it back to the car without getting drenched.

It’s not a good photo, but I am thrilled to have any photo of this bird.

Our mission accomplished, Michael, Sandra, and I headed back to Panama City. It had been a wonderful day, and we couldn’t have been happier. Sandra got a much-wanted life bird, and I was thrilled to share in the adventure. Michael had been a wonderful guide who found our target birds and made the entire day fun.

In eight days of birding, I added 32 species to my life list. I’m always greedy and had hoped for more, but that still greatly increases my chances of reaching 2,500 in South America this fall. Regardless of numbers, though, I love birding and can’t wait for the next adventure!

Posted in Central America | Tagged Blue Cotinga, Canopy Camp, Cinnamon Woodpecker, Green-and-black Poison Dart Frog, Guna Yala, King Vulture, Nusagandi, Orange-chinned Parakeet, Ornate Hawk-Eagle, Sapayoa, White-ruffed Manakin, White-tailed Trogon, Yellow-eared Toucanet | Leave a Comment »

Panama 2025 – Birding the Darién at Canopy Camp (Part 1 of 2)

October 27, 2025 by Shelley Rutkin

My trip to Panama last month started on a whim, as so many of my trips have. A couple of years ago, I made a birding trip bucket list; this trip wasn’t on it. I think that I’ll blame – or maybe credit – my friend, Sandra, for this one. She is a much better birder than I am and also more motivated, and some of that ambition may be rubbing off on me. Her goal is to see half of the world’s birds, now somewhere over 5,500. My more modest goal is 2,500. Sandra and I have a big trip to South America starting in November, and I really want to celebrate reaching my goal on that trip. Fearing that I wouldn’t make it, I looked for a quick and easy trip to pad my list a bit. Panama’s Canopy Camp fit the bill perfectly. I had been to the other two Canopy lodges in 2017 and had a great time. The guides are excellent, and there wouldn’t be any planning required. When I told Sandra about my plan, she decided to come with me.

We flew to Panama City on September 15 and met our guide, Oscar Fría, and the seven other participants the following morning. We all marveled at the migrating Mississippi Kites right over our heads in the hotel parking lot—an estimated 200 birds! And then we started the three-hour drive south toward the Darién Province. The day went quickly, with a couple of stops for birding and a nice outdoor lunch where we could watch birds while we ate. Below are the Snowy-bellied and Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds, a Blue-gray Tanager, and my favorite plumaged Blue Dacnis, an immature male, that entertained us during our meal.

We arrived at the camp mid-afternoon, giving us just the right amount of time to get settled in our comfortable safari-style tents and explore a little. I was happy to get two life birds that first day, a Sapphire-throated Hummingbird and a Pale-bellied Hermit. In the gallery below are those birds (top row), along with a Blue-chested Hummingbird and a White-necked Jacobin that frequented the area near the deck where we ate our meals.

It was exciting to be in the Darién, described by Raúl Arias, owner of the Canopy Family lodges, as the largest and least inhabited province of Panama, the one with the biggest tracts of primary forests, the longest and widest rivers, the tallest trees, the least accessible province, the least known. Here, in this hotbed of biological diversity, the camp itself sits atop a small plateau in lowland rainforest.

We birded around camp the next morning, and I got several more life birds. One of my favorites was the lovely Gray-cheeked Nunlet that Oscar digiscoped for me.

Another highlight was this Golden-headed Manakin. I missed it the first time the group saw it because I had gone back to our tent for something. Later, Sandra spotted it right from our deck!

Chestnut-headed Oropendolas were a constant presence around the camp.

I also loved this gorgeous female Black-crowned Tityra, a photo lifer.

On the 18th, we birded an area not far from the camp where more life birds awaited. I really like woodpeckers, so I was delighted to add this Golden-green Woodpecker to my life list.

This Orange-crowned Oriole was another wonderful bird and also a “lifer.”

A female Blue Cotinga was not a life bird, but what a beauty! I couldn’t have been happier if she had been a lifer. It was my best view ever of this species and my first look at a female.

Friday was a big day–the quest for Harpy Eagle. I saw my life Harpy in Ecuador a few years ago. Read about that experience and learn more about the eagle in Ecuador 2021: Limoncocha (Part 4 of 6). But I don’t think that any birder would pass up an opportunity to see this special bird, so I was happy to have another experience with it.

While assembled at the edge of the field before we started our trek, these Black Oropendolas bounced around a bare treetop on the opposite side of the field. The oropendolas were life birds, and I was very happy to have even a distant view.

We were lucky to have a relatively easy trek to the Harpy Eagle nest, about two-thirds of a mile each way on a shaded trail through the forest. In contrast, many birders have walked for hours in the sun or ridden horses to get to a Harpy Eagle nest. The trail was not exactly easy, though, with lots of mud and exposed tree roots. I couldn’t help thinking that these birds must intentionally choose nest sites in inaccessible areas. Here is the majestic female Harpy Eagle on her nest!

Our good luck continued the next day with an outing to Yaviza Forest and nearby areas. During the trip, no one talked of our proximity to the Darién Gap, but a little research at home revealed Yaviza as the terminus of the Pan-American Highway. There were smaller roads going south, and our eBird trip report map shows that we ventured south of Yaviza for a few birding stops, including our Harpy Eagle outing. The economy of Darién seems complicated, but we were told that cattle ranching is important, and there was evidence of it everywhere. The pretty pastoral scene below with the mountains in the distance is typical of many areas we visited.

We saw some special birds this day, with the Spot-breasted Woodpecker an instant favorite. Oscar told us that it is his favorite woodpecker, and it’s easy to see why.

This Red-throated Caracara was another standout species that day.

One more great bird was White-headed Wren. Not only does it look quite unlike most other wrens, it’s also much larger.

We saw a few mammals at the camp, but not many species. Oscar told us that they are scarce due to hunting for food by the local people. However, we did see White-nosed Coatis and Geoffroy’s Tamarins nearly every day.

There’s still a lot of the trip remaining. Watch for part 2. It was a fun group with some of the nicest people that I’ve ever met on a birding trip; every single person was kind and helpful. Sandra, John & April, Rob & Lynn, Gloria, Pablo, Amarilys, it was a delight sharing this adventure with you. Oscar was a great guide, and the Canopy staff was outstanding. Birding trips are about more than just birds, and these wonderful people made this one of my favorite trips.

Posted in Central America | Tagged Black Oropendola, Black-crowned Tityra, Blue Cotinga, Blue Dacnis, Blue-chested Hummingbird, Blue-gray Tanager, Canopy Camp, Chestnut-headed Oropendola, Darién Province, Geoffroy’s Tamarin, Golden-green Woodpecker, Golden-headed Manakin, Gray-cheeked Nunlet, Harpy Eagle, Orange-crowned Oriole, Pale-bellied Hermit, Panama, Red-throated Caracara, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Sapphire-throated Hummingbird, Snowy-bellied Hummingbird, Spot-breasted Woodpecker, White-headed Wren, White-necked Jacobin, White-nosed Coati | 3 Comments »

Malaysia: Moths and Nature’s Marvels (Part 2 of 2)

August 14, 2025 by Shelley Rutkin

Steven Wong is a renowned Malaysian nature guide and wildlife photographer. He is an expert on the snakes of Malaysia and leads herpetology-focused expeditions. Steven is also a genuinely kind person, generous with his time and knowledge. He and a friend stayed at MCM for a few days during the week that Alie and I were there. I was thrilled when he invited us on a night walk on Thursday. It was really fun, and I was especially excited that I got to hold a snake—a docile Asian Slug Snake.

On Friday, June 27, David, his friend John, Alie, and I piled into David’s car for a day of birding and butterflies. Jeriau Waterfall, a popular nature attraction about three miles from Bukit Fraser’s town center, was one of the prettiest places we visited. Below, David spreading “bait” for butterflies.

After a lovely walk along the creek, we returned to find these beautiful winged jewels waiting for us.

On Saturday, Alie went birding with Adam and seven other birders who were also staying at MCM. After a week, I was tired, so I stayed “home” and took a nap. A torrential downpour with loud, close thunder began around 3:00 PM. The guys thought the rain might bring in more moths during the next few days, but Alie and I would be leaving the following morning. Before we leave MCM, here is one more set of the fantastic moths that we saw there.

Goodbye Fraser’s Hill, hello Bukit Tinggi. Late Sunday morning, our driver picked us up for the three-hour drive through beautiful Malaysian landscapes. We saw well over 100 macaques on the drive—one big guy showed us why there are so many. We also learned why our driver quickly rolled up the windows whenever we approached a group by the side of the road.

We checked into Colmar Tropicale, a resort at Bukit Tinggi, about an hour from Kuala Lumpur in the highlands. After lunch, we set off to locate the bird blind in the Japanese Gardens so that we’d know where to find it the following morning. Most birders visit Bukit Tinggi for two species: Mountain Peacock-Pheasant and Ferruginous Partridge. Nearly all sightings of these birds are in early mornings, so we were shocked and thrilled to find the partridge at 3:00 PM.

The blind is just a little open area behind a ratty black net with some random holes. I sat on a stump someone had placed near the net and leaned forward in an effort to get in a better position for photos. What I didn’t realize was that the stump had been placed on a big tree root; when I leaned forward, it shifted, and I fell off. The stump then rolled into the net, flushing the partridge—never to be seen again (by us). I suppose it was all very funny, but it meant this photo was the best I would get.

Above, the view from the path around the Japanese Garden was breathtaking.

Colmar Tropicale’s “town center” on our first evening. The quirky resort is modeled after the 16th-century town of Colmar in Alsace, France. It’s convincing enough to draw quite a few visitors in summer. It looks quiet, but it was busy with people earlier in the day.

Starbucks was still open at 8:00 PM. Who would have guessed that it would not be open again the next morning at 8:00 AM? Fortunately, we could get coffee at the 7-Eleven!

During our three days at Colmar Tropicale, we never saw the Peacock-Pheasants despite spending much of our time at the blind. We assume it was because we couldn’t get there early enough. Walking to the Japanese Gardens from the hotel would have meant a two-mile trek uphill, most of it quite steep, and we just weren’t up to the task. Without our own car, we were stuck waiting for the first hotel shuttle at 10:00 AM. Still, we enjoyed our stay, relaxing and appreciating the wildlife that we did see.

We watched a Javan Myna, a life bird for both of us, bathe in the fountain in front of the hotel while we waited for the shuttle to the Japanese Gardens. A fly-by Great Hornbill was a treat to see, and Alie snapped a photo of a high-flying raptor that was good enough to confirm it as a Blyth’s Hawk-Eagle, another lifer for both of us. We saw a new species of monkey, A Dusky Leaf Monkey. There were squirrels in the woods, a few butterflies in various places, and a surprising number of moths on the bathroom walls of the lovely Japanese restaurant where we enjoyed a couple of nice meals.

This entire trip was amazing—from dazzling moths and birds to monkeys, snakes, and more. I am grateful to Alie for joining me on this adventure and to David Fischer for welcoming us at MCM and sharing his passion for the natural world. If you would like to see more, check out my iNaturalist observations for insects, mammals, herps, and a few plants. I took about 8,000 photos, so I’ll probably continue posting to iNat for a year. For all the bird info and photos, see our eBird trip report.

Posted in Asia, Lepidoptera | Tagged Asian Slug Snake, Bukit Tinggi, Colmar Tropicale, Ferruginous Partridge, Fraser's Hill, Jeriau Waterfall, Malaysia, MCM Nature Discovery Villa | 1 Comment »

Malaysia: Moths and Nature’s Marvels (Part 1 of 2)

August 14, 2025 by Shelley Rutkin

It started like most encounters between birders. Alie was arriving at Possum Branch Preserve just as I was heading out. “Hi, did you see anything good?” she asked. What came next was anything but ordinary. Within five minutes, I had blurted out: “I’m going to Malaysia to look at moths. Want to come?” Alie’s response was an enthusiastic “Yes!”

The huge Atlas moth—one of the largest lepidopterans in the world, with a wingspan measuring up to 24 cm (9.4 in)—was one that we especially hoped to see.

A couple of months earlier, David Fischer had posted an open invitation to join him at MCM Nature Discovery Villa in Fraser’s Hill for one of his three 2025 trips. I had been following David’s incredible photos in the Moths and Moth Watching Facebook group and thought Fraser’s Hill must be the best place on the planet for moths. David was friendly and encouraging when I contacted him, so I booked a room. Still, I felt a bit apprehensive and had been considering canceling before I met Alie. That hesitation was gone in an instant once I had a partner for the adventure.

We arrived at Kuala Lumpur International Airport on Saturday, June 21, just before 10:00 AM. Our driver picked us up and delivered us to MCM about three hours later. An hour after arriving, we joined the group for a photo session with two snakes that had been “bagged” the previous night. I was assured that this did not harm them and they would be returned to the exact spot where they had been captured. The Blue Malayan Coralsnake and Red-headed Krait are among the most beautiful creatures I have ever seen.

One of the seven moth sheets was set up on the patio right outside our room.

One word best describes that first night: overwhelming. I don’t have nightly numbers, but David identified over 1,500 species of moths during the 11 nights that he was at MCM.

Here’s a small sample of the week’s amazing moth diversity. Note the yellow and orange giant silk moth that resembles a Luna Moth. Yes, they are in the same genus, Actias, but the Malaysian Moon Moth is much larger. You can click on any of the photos in the galleries in this post for a larger view.

The next morning, Alie and I went birding with Adam, the son of MCM’s owner, Stephen, and an excellent guide. I found birding in Malaysia to be challenging overall with mostly skulky birds in dense forest. However, we had excellent views of this pretty Rufous-browed Flycatcher on the side of the road.

The birds at a feeding area were also cooperative. I was happy to get great looks at my lifer Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush, along with two Long-tailed Sibias.

On Monday, Alie walked the Telekom Loop with another birder staying at MCM while I took the day off to catch up on sleep. David and the regulars had a routine: a quick check of the moth sheets after dark, then sleep from 10:00 or 11:00 PM until 3:00 or 4:00 AM. They told us that the best moths frequently appear shortly before dawn. This was all new to us, and with a 12-hour jet lag, we never quite got into the rhythm. We simply enjoyed moths at random hours during the night and slept when we could squeeze in the time.

The MCM grounds were lovely, with plenty to see beyond the moths and other insects drawn to the lights at night. The photo above shows the treehouse and garden that attracted wildlife and provided the perfect staging area for birds nabbing breakfast at the nearby moth sheets. A highlight in the garden area was Malayan White-thighed Surili—a Near Threatened primate endemic to the Malay peninsula. They were shy; we did not see them every day.

The lights attracted many beetles and other insects in addition to moths. When I first started mothing, I found them annoying, but, since discovering iNaturalist in 2020, I now embrace all living things. Those formerly annoying insects are now “lifers” and I quickly learned how interesting they are. Here’s just a tiny sample from MCM: a katydid in the genus Lesina, commonly known as Dragon-headed Katydids, a large beetle that I think is a Mango-tree Longicorn Borer, and a green cicada, Dundubia vaginata (with no common name).

Among the many moths at MCM were numerous hawk moths. Here is a small sample.

On Tuesday, we walked the Telekom Loop with David. It’s one of the best birding hotspots in Fraser’s Hill, although the birds were unpredictable. Still, if you walked the loop often enough, you could see some wonderful birds and a few butterflies. One of my favorites was this beautiful Pallid Faun.

The Telekom Loop is only about two and a half miles, but the short road up to MCM is steep, and I was out of shape. On Wednesday, Alie and I walked the loop by ourselves and took our time—over four hours! We were rewarded with the discovery of a Rufous-browed Flycatcher nest by the side of the road, and we could even see a baby peeking out. We also found an Orange-bellied Flowerpecker, a life bird for both of us.

Of course, every night brought more moths. Here’s a selection I found particularly interesting for their odd shapes, fuzziness, or transparent wing spots.

Here is a close-up of one of the sheets at night. We thought that was a lot of moths, but David said the sheets were even more densely packed in May.

The atmosphere at MCM Nature Discovery Villa reminded me a little of REGUA in Brazil. Stephen only allows guests who are interested in nature, and everyone was very friendly. Jo and Petra, a couple from Belgium, had a car and invited us to join them for birding on Thursday. Alie opted for sleep while I choose the drive into town and birding. We visited the feeding area again, where I was surprised to see a Silver-eared Mesia. These gorgeous little birds are frequently targeted by the caged bird trade, and I had not realized how well the native populations are faring.