Mongolia was the first country I put on my newly created Birding Bucket List in June 2023. Not long after, Nick Bray of Zoothera Birding announced that he was leading a trip to Mongolia in May 2024—I signed up right away.
As one of the least densely populated countries in the world, Mongolia offers a rare kind of solitude. At times, we went days without hearing any sounds of other people or signs of civilization. The result was an incredible sense of peace and a deep connection to nature, set against Mongolia’s stunningly diverse landscapes.
The friendly mural above greeted us at the Chinggis Khaan International Airport in the capital city of Ulaanbaatar when we arrived at 2:30 AM on May 20. Puje, our local guide, met us there. After coffee and snacks at the airport, we headed to Terelj National Park, a few hours outside the city.
On the way, we made a quick stop at the massive statue of Genghis Khan. He’s a fascinating figure—remembered for his ruthless quest for world domination that claimed millions of lives. As a child, he even killed his older half-brother. Yet, he’s also described as charismatic and generous to his followers. Wikipedia notes, “He was posthumously deified in Mongolia; modern Mongolians recognize him as the founding father of their nation.”
Before long, we were watching several Black-billed Capercaillie perform their incredible courtship displays among the Siberian larch trees in Terelj NP. Capercaillie was our top target, and seeing these magnificent birds was an experience I’ll never forget.
Here is a closer view of the beautiful larch forest.
Our camp was set up at the edge of the national park. In Mongolia, all that is required for camping is a bit of level ground. With our ground crew of five, we were completely self-sufficient. Each of us in the birding group had our own little tent, not high enough to stand up inside, but with sufficient space for a sleeping bag and our gear. Food was prepared and eaten in the larger tent. A hand-washing station was near the food tent and a toilet tent was set up just a little farther away.
Yes, I’m going to describe the toilet tent because you are curious, aren’t you? First, they dig a trench about 18 inches deep and pile the dirt nearby. A toilet seat on legs is placed over the hole and then a small tent with a zippered door goes over the whole setup. When you’re done using the facility, you toss a shovel of dirt in the hole to cover your tracks if necessary. You have privacy and an actual toilet seat. It seemed environmentally friendly and didn’t smell too bad either. When we broke camp, they simply filled in the hole with the remaining dirt. I thought it was a brilliant system!
The view from our camp on the forest’s edge was just spectacular.
This lovely spot had many beautiful wildflowers around the forest edges.
We spent the rest of the day exploring the area near our campsite and another nearby part of the park. A highlight for me was a nice Pine Bunting, but it was also fun to see some “old friends” like this proud Ruddy Shelduck and his mate sitting atop a large rock.
After a good night’s sleep in our snug little tents, we ventured into the forest and watched about half a dozen displaying male Capercaillies for two hours. Reportedly, males engage in fierce battles on leks during courtship season, but we didn’t witness any “fights.” Each male seemed to simply patrol his own loosely defined lek territory strutting around with neck stretched upwards and tail fanned while making an odd clicking call. Black-billed Capercaillie are massive birds with the males weighing up to ten pounds. Watching this ancient ritual was one of those times that I’ve lost myself among the birds; humbled and awed that I was allowed the privilege of being part of their world for a short time.
Next, we drove to Gun Galuut Nature Reserve, a series of lakes that were teeming with birds, especially ducks of numerous species. I was thrilled to add another crane to my list: the graceful Demoiselle Crane.
Our day ended with a little modern comfort at the Mongolia Hotel in Ulaanbataar.
Day three was a travel day with stops for birding along the way. The afternoon gifted us with a much-wanted trophy bird of Central Asia, Oriental Plover.
Our lodging that evening was the Khanbogd Tourist Camp near Dalanzadgad. The key word is “tourist,” which means upscale by Mongolian standards. I should have taken photos of the women’s restroom/shower building. It had Western-style toilets, hot showers, and a nice big vanity to set your stuff while brushing your teeth. Our gers were comfortable and had electricity.
We were able to sleep late for a 7:00 AM breakfast and then headed to the must-visit hotspot, Yolyn Am. This deep and narrow gorge is one of the most iconic and scenic locations in the Gobi Desert. I got several life birds this day including Mongolian Accentor and the more boldly plumaged Brown Accentor, Two-barred Warbler, and Twite (a little brown finch named for its distinctive call, a nasal, rising ‘twi-eet’).
The highlight of the day for me occurred late that afternoon when we spotted a Saker Falcon on her nest!
We also saw several small mammals that day including the Alashan Ground Squirrel, Palla’s Pika, and Mongolian Jird in the photos below.
After another night at the Khanbogd Tourist Camp, we set out for Khongor Els. Late that morning we found another range-restricted species, Mongolian Ground-Jay, which is found only in Mongolia and northwest China.
Our mid-day stop was by a little pool and stream where we found a few more birds while our ground crew prepared lunch. There were nearly always animals in the background—sheep with a few goats frequently in the mix, cows, horses, and occasionally camels.
That afternoon, we skirted the edge of the Gobi desert. One of the few things I would have liked to change about the trip was to venture into the desert and see it up close.
Our ger camp that night wasn’t traditional; we had private bathrooms inside our gers! The five men in our group shared gers with two or three in each one. Since I was the only woman birder, I always had a ger all to myself. The wind howled all that night, so it was nice to not have to step outside to get to the bathroom.
Our trip was just beginning and there are many more unforgettable moments to come. Stay tuned for part 2.
Birding for Life 