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Posts Tagged ‘Bopanna Pattada’

December 3 was a long and wonderful day that included a safari and some of my favorite birds of the trip. We spent the morning birding near Nagarahole National Park and I got my life Flame-throated Bulbul, a beautiful bird that Bopanna had promised me when we were planning the trip.

I also got my life White-bellied Treepie that morning. I have loved treepies ever since a Rufous Treepie ate from my hand. For that story, see Northern India 2014 (Part 1 of 2). The photo is near the end of the post. White-bellied Treepies are much more shy than Rufous Treepies and I was was not able to get a photo of my lifer. I took the photo below two days later when we were lucky to see this captivating species again.

Crimson-backed Sunbirds were the most cooperative species of the day and I was very happy to watch about half a dozen of these colorful birds as they fed in the vegetation near me. Their irridescence reminds me of our hummingbirds of the Western Hemisphere as they appear to change color in response to the light.

Later that morning, we spent a little time at a shallow river with large rocks that allowed us to walk out into the river. We decided that it was the perfect place for our trip group photo. I will always remember that serene and beautiful spot.

We had lunch at Devi villa, a lovely homestay near Nagarahole National Park. We enjoyed watching birds in the yard from the dining area. An adorable Vernal Hanging Parrot conveniently perched atop a closeby tree. Why is it called a hanging parrot? Because it has the unique ability to sleep upside down. There are 13 species of these tiny 5-1/2 inch green birds, all found in southeast Asia.

We were also treated to good views of a pretty Golden-fronted Leafbird in the lush yard.

A young English woman traveling alone was another guest at the homestay, so we invited her to sit with us for lunch. We enjoyed interesting conversation about everything from her desire to see wild tigers to Mongolia (she has been, I have a trip scheduled). After lunch, Bopanna picked some lychee fruits for our new friend that she wanted very much.

Our afternoon safari at Nagarahole National Park was a lot of fun. The mad dashes in an open jeep on dirt roads did not result in the tiger sighting that everyone wanted, but a safari wouldn’t be the same if the drivers didn’t try. We saw other animals including one of my favorites, Indian Spotted Deer (Chital), and Sri Lankan Sambar Deer.

We saw many elephants of all sizes and ages on the safari. Here’s a big guy with some nice tusks.

We saw birds, too. The Crested subspecies of Changeable Hawk-Eagle was especially nice to see. I had seen the “Changeable” subspecies in 2014, so this was not a life bird, but a new subspecies.

The sunset was beautiful as we left the park, a fitting end to a wonderful day.

I got six more life birds on December 4 and we continued to enjoy birding from our little balcony. The Malabar Gray Hornbill below was just across the street.

The Jungle Palm Squirrel in the yard below our balcony had entertained us all week and it finally held still long enough for me to get a photo.

Our last day of birding with Bopanna on December 5 arrived much too quickly. In addition to four more life birds, a highlight that day was another Indian Giant Squirrel. We had seen one on the safari at Nagarahole NP a few days earlier, but this one was slightly more cooperative. I became fascinated with giant squirrels when I first saw a Black Giant Squirrel in China a few years ago, but it was so shy and quick that I didn’t get any photo at all. With this Indian Giant Squirrel, you can actually get an idea of what it looks like if you put my two photos together.

My last life bird in Coorg was Dark-fronted Babbler, a very skulky bird that took significant time and effort for me to see. This brought my total number of life birds for the week to 52, an impressive number I thought because this was not my first trip to India. Also, Linda and I had found 16 life birds for me on our own the week before near her home south of Bangalore. Bopanna was able to help me see so many birds because of his intimate knowledge of the area and its birdlife. Every day, he had me generate a new eBird target list which he used to decide which birds to look for and where to search for them.

On our last afternoon, there were no more reasonable target birds, so Bopanna gave us some time to enjoy and photograph butterflies. Millions of butterflies of several species migrate to the Western Ghats every winter. It was spell-binding to see plants covered in these beautiful winged creatures.

The most numerous species was also my favorite – Dark Blue Tiger Butterfly. Below is a close-up view.

The Coorg district of the Western Ghats is a wonderful location for birding and nature watching amidst coffee plantations and sacred forests with wonderful landscape every direction you look. I highly recommend a trip to the area with guiding by Bopanna Pattada. See his website, Bangalore Birding, for more information.

Our eBird Trip Report provides a listing of all species seen and all photographs by Linda and me.

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The Western Ghats is a vast mountain range that stretches nearly 1,000 miles along the western coast of the Indian peninsula, spanning six states. These ancient mountains, older than the Himalayas, are a globally significant biodiversity hotspot. They are home to over 9,000 species of plants, more than 500 species of birds, and numerous mammals and other animals. Sixteen bird species are endemic to the Western Ghats, and an equal number of species are most easily found there.

When Linda and I were planning my visit, we knew that we wanted to spend time in the Western Ghats. After exploring several options, we decided to hire Bopanna Pattada, one of the area’s top guides, for a week of birding in Coorg, where all of the endemic birds of the Western Ghats occur. Coorg, also known as Kodagu which means “dense hilly country,” is located on the eastern slopes of the Western Ghats. It is one of the nicest and coolest places that is easily accessible from Bangalore.

On November 29, we traveled to Mysore, where we enjoyed a pleasant and quiet afternoon at a nice little resort on the Kaveri River. It was the first day since my arrival in India that I did not get a life bird, but we enjoyed watching crows, cormorants, egrets, and a proud male peacock atop a big rock by the river.

Bopanna picked us up early the next morning and we started birding right away as we slowly made our way west. Linda photographed the Asian Openbill below at our first birding stop.

At our next stop, we were happy to see the beautiful Blue-tailed Bee-eater below. Linda and I both love the colorful and fascinating bee-eaters. They really do eat bees and other flying insects, catching them mid-flight and then smacking them on a branch to stun the insect and remove the stinger and toxins. Bee-eaters breed in large colonies and most species have nest “helpers” (offspring or other close relatives) who assist the parents with feeding and other duties. The San Diego Zoo provides fascinating facts about their life histories here.

I had seen a Blue-tailed Bee-eater in 2014, but I got ten other “lifers” that day including the Orange Minivet below.

We also saw several wild elephants as we drove the main road through Nagarhole National Park.

The latest elephant census in Coorg estimated 1,103 wild individuals. I was excited to see the elephants, but I quickly learned that Kodagu’s people live in constant fear of elephant encounters, and several people are killed in these encounters each year. Efforts to improve the dangerous situation for both the local people and the elephants are on-going. Bopanna was constantly alert, listening for the presence of elephants nearby, and several times told us to get to the car as quickly as possible.

We also saw Bonnet Macaques while driving through the park. The one below was part of a group enjoying the offerings left at a small Hindu Temple.

That evening we settled in at our home for the week, the entire upstairs floor of a nice little house. We each had our own bedroom as well as two full baths, a living room, dining room, and kitchen. The best part was a lovely balcony where we spent several happy hours during the week watching birds in the trees right in the yard and across the street.

The next morning, December 1, we visited a coffee plantation. Coorg produces 40% of the country’s coffee crop, which is mostly grown under a native canopy. The coffee plantations were beautiful and full of birds. I really enjoyed the delicious coffee during our trip and I bought a pound of it to bring home.

Many of the endemics of the Western Ghats have Malabar in their names. Below, my life Malabar Flameback, distinguished from the similar Black-rumped Flameback mostly by a slightly different pattern on the face.

The day ended with one of the most amazing experiences of trip, the three of us sitting hidden in the woods by a little pond at dusk. Bopanna spotted an Indian Pitta in the trees, and then other birds slowly appeared at the water’s edge. Orange-headed Thrush, Indian Blue Robin, Malabar Whistling Thrush, Puff-throated Babbler, Blue-throated Flycatcher, and a few others came for a bedtime drink and bath. It was a “magic moment,” one of those almost spiritual experiences when it feels like the birds allow you to be a part of their world for a short time.

Saturday, December 2, started at Bandipur Wildlife Sanctuary with a Crested Serpent-Eagle.

Next at the sanctuary, Linda and I both saw our lifer Chestnut-headed Bee-eater. We did some birding at another location and then went back to our home for the week for a mid-day break where Linda made the gorgeous entry below in her nature journal.

We still have three more days of birding with Bopanna in Coorg. Part 2b coming soon.

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