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Posts Tagged ‘Km18’

A Bat Falcon perched atop a pole eating a bat symbolized an auspicious start to the day. We were on our way to Avistamiento de aves doña Dora, which The Birders Show calls “the best backyard birding on earth.” Lisa and I agreed after our visit later that day, but our guide, Gilberto Collazos Bolaños, had other plans for our morning.

First was a stop at an amazing spot along the roadside. One of my favorites here was a cooperative Bay Wren. I have heard this bird and had quick glimpses of it on other trips, but I never managed to get a good look at it. This one hopped around in the grass showing off its pretty bay-colored back and striking face and underside. I was thrilled.

Our main target here was Crested Ant-Tanager and we had good looks at two of these birds that occur only in western Colombia. Do you think it looks a lot like our Northern Cardinal? Taxonomists originally placed this species in the tanager family, but later moved it to Cardinalidae, so you are right.

One of the cutest birds at this location was this Ornate Flycatcher.

It was hard to leave, but after our little group tallied about 30 species, we moved on for a quick stop to see the Lyre-tailed Nightjar on her nest by the roadside.

We arrived at Doña Dora just after 10:30 AM. There were so many birds that it’s hard to know where to start. As promised, it was amazing.

In addition to watching birds from the backyard at Doña Dora, you can go up on the roof for tree-top views. Several species were easier to see here including this Red-faced Spinetail. Spinetails have been skulky and challenging for me, so I was pleased that this bird was easy enough that I got both good looks and a photo.

Doña Dora is located in the Chocó bioregion, an area between the Pacific Ocean and the Andes Mountains that runs from southern Panama through Colombia to northwest Ecuador. This is one of the most biodiverse areas on earth and it hosts over 50 endemic bird species, birds that occur nowhere else on the planet. One of these birds, the Toucan Barbet, is the star of Dona Dora. I was fortunate to see this beautiful bird in Ecuador on my 2021 trip with Xavier Muñoz of Neblina Forest. I wrote about this interesting species in Ecuador 2021: Sachatamia (Part 2 of 6). This time I was armed with more information and I was determined to distinguish the male from the female and get photos. The male, on the left, clearly has black tufts on the nape of his neck; the female (on right) does not have tufts.

Monday, November 13, was our last full day in Colombia and we spent most of our time at La Florida or nearby. I loved having time to do things around the lodge like checking the moth sheet early in the morning. I believe it is set up to attract birds, which come to feast on the moths for breakfast. I enjoyed seeing birds there, but I also liked the moths for themselves and not just as bird food.

Below are some of the beautiful moths that I photographed on the sheet.

Lisa works for Manomet, a non-profit organization dedicated to bird conservation in the Western Hemisphere. Manomet accomplishes much of its work with local staff throughout the Americas. Lisa works with Jeisson and Vi who are located in Cali, but she had not met them in person. Happily for all of us, they came up to spend the morning birding with us.

We walked the road by the lodge and the others saw many birds. I had a bit of difficulty as usual, but when Jeisson and Vi learned that I was obsessed with all living things, they pointed out many interesting little critters on the roadsides. Below, my favorite grasshopper of the trip and one of the four tarantulas that we saw that day.

Lisa and I met Luis, the owner of Bosque de Niebla, when he brought clients to look for birds at La Florida. He offered to take us owling and we decided that would be a great way to spend our last evening. First we went to see Julio, the Black-and-White Owl that I had seen on my first night before Lisa arrived. Next we drove the roads that Luis knows so very well and he found a Tropical Screech-Owl for us. I had put this species on my life list when I heard it in Ecuador in 2021, but it was great to move it to the seen list.

Our last owl for the evening was appropriately, Mottled Owl. We had been hearing one of these owls call every evening and it was wonderful to finally see one.

Lisa left for the airport early Tuesday morning. We both could have happily stayed in Colombia much longer, but we had packed a lot into a few days. My flight was a bit later, so I spent a pleasant, lazy morning soaking in the beauty of La Florida El Bosque de las Aves.

Javier spent some time with me and showed me around the lodge and the neighboring area. By now, he felt like an old friend and I was sad to leave his beautiful lodge, but finally I had to say goodbye.

Lisa has made me a fan of short trips when longer trips are not possible. For a complete list of the birds that we saw and heard, see our eBird trip report, Colombia – November 2023. My iNaturalist observations can be found here.

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“No suggestions, but I want to go with you! Seriously.” I had quickly and impulsively replied to Lisa Schibley when she posted on Facebook that she wanted to go to Colombia for three days, one lodge, close to a major airport. Colombia hadn’t made the cut for my birding bucket list; too much overlap with Ecuador, where I’ve been twice, and the birding would be too hard for me with my crappy vision. But this would be an opportunity to visit a new country and sample the birding without committing to an expensive guided trip. I couldn’t resist.

The beauty of Colombia was calling Lisa, and me, too. Photo by Lisa Schibley.

Lisa and I did not know each other well. We had met a few years earlier through a mutual friend and shared a lifer La Sagra’s Flycatcher. But that was enough to feel comfortable and think that we’d have fun together. The next thing I knew, I had plane tickets to Cali for a trip sandwiched in between my visit to North Carolina in late October and my flight to India for a big trip starting on November 20.

I arrived on Wednesday afternoon, November 8, with just enough time to get settled in at La Florida – Bosque de Las Aves. The hummingbirds, tanagers, and Colombian Chachalaca were wonderful, but the highlight was this Andean Motmot. Another birder and I were quietly watching the feeders when he arrived just before dark and put on this fascinating show. Be sure to turn up the volume; he is vocalizing during most of the video.

Thursday morning started with one of La Florida’s special birds – Chestnut Wood-Quail. These normally shy birds are endemic to Colombia. Javier’s birds have learned to trust him and come for breakfast every morning making La Florida one of the most reliable places to see these beauties.

Gabriel Borrero is not guiding much lately because he is busy setting up Cantar del Bosque, a natural sanctuary that he bought for the protection of the Golden-headed Quetzal and its environment. Check out his instagram account: @zwexpeditions (Zen Wild Expeditions).

A Facebook contact put me in touch with Gabriel and, luckily for me, he agreed to spend some time with me. His perfect English (as well as Spanish) and warm and friendly personality made the day easy and fun. I instantly felt that I had a new friend. The photo below is Gabriel and me later in the day at Finca Alejandría.

After enjoying the Wood-Quail, Gabriel and I spent the rest of the morning at the nearby San Felipe birding lodge where we were guided by Felipe Espinoza. I took these photos that morning – male and female White-lined Tanager, Black-winged Saltator, and Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager.

Felipe was as excited as Gabriel and me to see a Bicolored Hawk, a species with a widespread distribution, but no other eBird reports at any of the Km18 lodges.

San Felipe also has frogs! Everyone accommodated my obsession with all living creatures and Felipe caught a Boettger’s Colombian Tree Frog for me to see up close and photograph. Isn’t he adorable? Our photo session was done quickly and froggy was gently returned to his pond.

My favorite birds of the morning were the Cali area’s signature species – Multicolored Tanager. This beautiful bird is endemic to the mountains of Colombia where it has a small range. It also has a small population and it is known from only a few sites giving it a conservation status of vulnerable. At San Felipe, we had the privilege of watching a whole family!

After a lovely lunch at San Felipe, we headed up the road to the famous Finca Alejandría “El Paraiso de Los Colibries.” We enjoyed several species of hummers including the Steely-vented Hummingbird below which had been a life bird earlier in the day at San Felipe.

The last bird we saw at Finca Alejandría was one close to Gabriel’s heart, a Golden-headed Quetzal.

We ended the day with a visit to the beloved “Julio,” a Black-and-White Owl, at Finca El Porvenir. This species was not seen in the Km18 area until about three years ago when Julio showed up. Suddenly a mate appeared and then soon a young one. Gabriel and others watched the adults teach their offspring how to hunt. They love the big moths that are attracted to the lights at El Porvenir but also hunt mice and small reptiles. The evening was dark, quiet and peaceful; sharing it with the gorgeous Julio was magical.

I fell asleep that night very happy and excited that Lisa would arrive the following morning.

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