Derek and I met at Rio de Janeiro–Galeão International Airport on the afternoon of August 23 and two hours later our driver delivered us to Reserva Ecológica de Guapiaçu, commonly known as REGUA. After the manager had shown us to our rooms, we were warmly greeted by a woman who didn’t tell us her position. We quickly learned that she was another guest. The lodge looks like it could have been an old house with a lot of bedrooms and a large kitchen, dining room, and family room. The atmosphere at REGUA is more like a gathering of friends and family than a typical tourist lodge. Current guests welcome newcomers into the fold. During our short stay, guests included a couple who were “just” birders, a well-known ecologist and an award-winning science journalist. When away from the lodge, we were frequently asked by locals if we were scientists.
It was dark after we finished dinner, so instead of birding, we spent the evening at the moth wall, simply a 8-foot high and 6-8 foot wide wall in the yard, painted white with lights to attract moths. Even though it was winter, we saw amazing moths. A sample is below; click on any image in the gallery for a larger view.
The next morning, Derek took advantage of birding with the local guide. I was lazy and opted to walk around the wetland with some of the others who were staying at REGUA. Derek saw more birds than I did, but I enjoyed the introduction to the lake and wetland which are the heart of REGUA. This beautiful Rufescent Tiger-Heron was an easy-to-see bird and a highlight of the morning.
I went back to the lodge and spent some time watching the hummingbird feeders where I was rewarded with my first life bird on this part of the trip, a Black Jacobin.
Derek returned in time for a late afternoon walk around the wetland. Many of the birds were familiar to us, but we also saw a Whistling Heron, a life bird for both of us. I also enjoyed this cute little Gray-headed Tody-Flycatcher.
The day went quickly and soon we were back at the moth wall. More fascinating moths included those below.
Our most surprising experience at REGUA occurred that evening. I was alone at the moth wall while Derek was in his room reviewing photos. Suddenly, I heard a noise behind me, turned, and saw a tapir about six feet away! I jumped in surprise and he ambled into the woods. I rushed inside to get Derek, not really expecting a return visit from the tapir, but I had to get Derek out there. We were standing by the wall quietly talking when Derek said, “Shelley, look over your shoulder.” And, there he was!
Reserva Ecológica de Guapiaçu is a non-profit organization with a mission of conserving and protecting the local Atlantic Forest. REGUA’s species reintroduction project works to rebalance and restore a healthy ecosystem. One of the species in that program is the Brazilian or lowland tapir, Tapirus terrestris, a large mammal that weighs an average of 500 pounds. The following day, we learned that our tapir’s name is Valente and that he was one of the animals reintroduced into the area. Valente has adapted quite well and he has fathered most of the next generation of tapirs in the area.
On our last full day at REGUA, I thought that we should go to the wetlands as early as possible, but it turned out that wasn’t such a great idea. The local birding guide showed up an hour after we left and went with the other birders to the wetlands. They saw twice as many species as we did even though Derek is a good birder with sharp eyes. Experienced local guides who know bird songs and calls are invaluable in environments with skulky birds in thick vegetation.
Regardless, we enjoyed our walk and the birds that we saw. Two of our favorites were White-headed Marsh Tyrant and Masked Water-Tyrant.
Butterflies were not nearly as common as moths, but we did see a few on our walks around the wetlands. Below, a Pythonides jovianus, sometimes called Variable Blue-Skipper.
Back at the lodge, we continued to appreciate beauties like this Swallow-tailed Hummingbird.
On our third and last night at the moth wall, we continued to see new species. During our nights there we also saw a few other insects. One of the most interesting was this large leaf katydid, Pycnopalpa bicordata.
We had one more morning at REGUA, but it rained so we spent most of our time on the lovely open porch just outside the dining room. The rain didn’t deter the birds and other animals, so we just sat and enjoyed the show.
We appreciated good looks at a Blond-crested Woodpecker, one of my life birds at REGUA.
The banana feeders were popular, even in light rain. The Maroon-bellied Parakeets were always fun to watch.
Common Marmosets enjoyed the bananas as much as the birds.
I’ll end with my favorite bird from REGUA, the elegant little Blue-naped Chlorophonia. I could look at these beautiful birds all day and never tire of them.
Just after lunch, our driver would pick us up and take us to Eco Lodge Itororó. Most birders who stay at Itororó do a day trip to REGUA, but I’m very grateful for our three days there. Without an overnight visit, we would have missed the moths and tapir encounter as well as the camaraderie with other guests, the delicious home-cooked meals, and the wonderful warm atmosphere.
Birding for Life 